I have recently discovered a new way of working crochet projects in the round, and I would like to share it with you! Especially since I will be sharing a coaster project next week (and many other projects in the future) that use this technique.
This technique works anytime working projects in the round in which you are joining at the end of your rounds and chaining to begin the next round.
This technique will not eliminate your seam, but it will keep it straight, which definitely helps to hide it if you are able to keep it out of view on the side or back of a project.
In this sample, I am using Lily Sugar n Cream in Rose Pink, J10/6mm Crochet Hook, and Half Double Crochets (HDC), but this technique is the same with any yarn, hook size and stitch of choice.
I also have a tip to share with you to aid in the weaving in of tougher yarns, such as cotton and bulky/chunky.
ROUND 1:
1 – You can certainly begin this with a magic ring or chain-and-join to form a ring, but I think working the beginning as a chain and then working into it helps keep the tension looser (which will keep your circle flat).
To to begin this sample:
Chain 3.
2 – Work 10 HDC into the first chain.
If you were using single crochets, begin with a chain 2,
and chain 4 if using double crochets).
3 – I also recommend keeping a longer than usual tail in the beginning because as you work into the chain, that chain will stretch and you will need the extra.
Once you’ve completed the number of stitches needed for the first round, in this case 10, pull the tail to close up the hole.
4 – Slip stitch join to the first HDC, not the beginning chain.
ROUND 2:
1 – Chain 1.
If working in single crochet, chain 1 as well; chain 2 if using double crochets.
Also, if you have a tigher tension and the ends of your round are cupping, add an extra chain to your beginning chain.
2 – When increasing, you would normally work two stitches into the same stitch. To keep your seam straight, we will work our increases on either side.
Continue with the round as: 1 HDC into the first stitch, 2 HDC into each of the next 9 stitches…
3 – Work the final HDC (which is the second to your increase), into the last stitch (which also happens to be the first stitch, just on the other side of it).
4 – Slip stitch join to the first HDC.
*You will work the remaining rounds in a similar method.
ROUND 3:
1 – Chain 1.
2 – 1 HDC into the first 2 stitches, (2 HDC into the next stitch, 1 HDC into the next stitch) 9 times…
3 – Work the final HDC into the last/first stitch.
4 – Slip stitch join to the first HDC.
ROUND 4:
1 – Chain 1.
2 – 1 HDC into the first 3 stitches, (2 HDC into the next stitch, 1 HDC into the next 2 stitches) 9 times…
3 – Work the final HDC into the last/first stitch.
4 – Slip stitch join to the first HDC.
I stopped after Round 4, and finished it with an invisible join.
AND… Here is your tip!
I have worked many plastic canvas projects and cotton crocheted projects without knowing this tip and had a sore thumb for much of it – but with this tip, it will save your thumb! And time.
Please DO NOT claim this tutorial as your own nor should you sell my tutorial, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my tutorial anywhere, link to it instead.
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Thanks for sharing this great tutorial.
Thank YOU Julie!