This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet my new Kids Quick and Easy Slipper Socks – this includes Toddler and Big Kids sizes! They are a great stashbusting project, and worked in purely half double crochets throughout.
Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
This has been my most requested crochet pattern – a kid’s version of my adult Quick and Easy Slipper Socks – patterns found below! It took me some time to find a chart I could use for kid’s foot sizing, and then I needed a little motivation, but it’s finally here! And since I don’t have any kids to try this pattern on, I had it tested for fit by a few makers.
Before we go on, it’s important to measure the diameter, and the finished slipper BEFORE trying on. Red Heart Super Saver is a great yarn for so many different projects, but it’s also a little inconsistent. Just because you gauge with one color, does not mean you will meet gauge worked in another color – I’ve learned this the hard way. I am providing the diameters to check against, and the finished slipper should be about 1″ smaller than the actual foot length. I recommend measuring every time you make a pair.
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Women’s Quick & Easy Slipper Socks in 9 US Sizes
Men’s Quick & Easy Slipper Socks in 13 US Sizes
Materials:
- Less than 120 Yards of Worsted Weight #4 Yarn – I used Red Heart’s Super Saver in Spring Green (Bright Green), either Soft Navy or Denim (Dark Blue), and Bonbon Prints
- I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
Material Notes:
Yarn Alternatives: Bernat’s Super Value Yarn, Caron’s One Pound, Hobby Lobby’s Crafters Secret.
I did make and test out some slippers using Vanna’s Choice Yarn, and while they worked up well, the yarn wasn’t as durable as the Super Saver yarn and became rather frizzy rather quickly. I also choose the Super Saver yarn because it has a nice cushion to it, and feels quite nice as it hugs your feet. For anyone with concerns regarding the rough feel – it will get softer after the first wash.
Time Spent:
Hour and a half or less (depending on size)
Sizes Included:
Included are Toddler’s US Sizes 7 through 9.5, and Big Kids US Sizes 10 through 7.5.
Foot sizes are included below. Choose the one best suited for your foot. Half sizes included for reference, but slipper size will be to whole size.
Gauge:
- Recommended: Follow instructions for the crown of the slipper, and check diameter to meet gauge.
- Straight Stitches: 12 HDC by 7 Rows – 4″ x 3″
Abbreviations (US Term):
HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
Shoe sizes are not the same throughout – I have learned that through much research as I am sure many of you have realized while shoe shopping. Foot lengths are included below – choose the one that best suits your foot. For example, I wear a size 8.5 sneaker and 9 sandal. My foot size is 10″ so following the numbers below, I made myself a pair of the size 9 – 9.5 slippers.
Having the beginning increase split on either side of the beginning chain helps keep the seam straight, and also adds to the ease of keeping a looser tension.
Joining is to be done into the first half double crochet, not the beginning chain.
I suggest weaving in beginning tail after finishing round 3.
Finished slipper will be about two inches shorter than foot. If using other yarns other than I named, your ease could/will probably vary.
Slipper FAQ:
How do I start with a chain 3? Do I still need to make a ring? With 8/9 half double crochets in the first round, the circle does not lay flat – it cups rather, so to counter balance this cupping, we start with a chain 3, and work our round into the very first chain, instead of a ring. Make sure to leave a longer than normal tail as it will take some length away from it with the addition of stitches.
Where do I join the first round? You will slip stitch join to the first stitch of the round. If you are unsure of which stitch this is, count backwards from where your last stitch is counting it as one. In this example, I have 8 stitches.
What do you mean that you split the beginning increase? And what does “1 HDC in the next/first stitch” mean? I split my beginning increase to help keep my seam straight. I work the first stitch as normal into the first stitch of the round which is to the left of the beginning chain (indicated by the arrow on the left), and then I work the second stitch of that first increase into the same stitch as the first, but to the right of the beginning chain (indicated by the arrow on the right). By hugging the beginning chain, the seam remains straight, rather than slanted.
What if I don’t want the seam to show on the top of my slipper? I designed this slipper to be really easy with minimal sewing, so the seam shows on the top, but if you don’t want the seam to show, you can fasten off your yarn after the first half of the slipper is done, flip the piece 180 degrees around so the seam is even along the back, then find the center of the new front, and join your yarn to begin the second half of the slipper.
What is the difference between working around, and across? Working around means joined rounds, and working across means rows back and forth with no join. There are two halves to this slipper, the first half worked in rounds to fit over the foot, and the second half worked in rows to create the opening for the foot.
Where are the instructions for the heel? Indicated in each size are instructions to “scroll down to finish” where we seam up the back opening of the slipper to make it wearable.
How to Crochet Quick and Easy Slipper Socks Video Tutorial (shown in Women’s size 9):
Pattern:
Toddler US Size 7 (5 5/8” foot) – Toddler US Size 7.5 (5 7/8” foot); Diameter 1.88″ or 1 7/8″
Chain 3. 7 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (7 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 6 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (14 HDC)
R3 – 6: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R7 – 13: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Toddler US Size 8 (6” foot) – Toddler US Size 8.5 (6 1/8” foot); Diameter 2″
Chain 4. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 8 HDC into the ring. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3 – 7: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R8 – 14: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Toddler US Size 9 (6 3/8” foot) – Toddler US Size 9.5 (6.5” foot); Diameter 2.13″ or 2 1/8″
Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3 – 7: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R8 – 15: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 10 (6 5/8” foot) – Child US Size 10.5 (6 7/8” foot); Diameter 2.13″ or 2 1/8″
Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3 – 8: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R9 – 16: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 11 (7” foot) – Child US Size 11.5 (7 1/8” foot); Diameter 2.38″ or 2 3/8″
Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 12 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (12 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 11 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R3 – 8: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R9 – 16: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 12 (7 3/8” foot) – Child US Size 12.5 (7.5” foot) Diameter 2.38″ or 2 3/8″
Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 12 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (12 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 11 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R3 – 9: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R10 – 15: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 1 (8” foot) – Child US Size 1.5 (8 1/8” foot) Diameter 2.38″ or 2 3/8″
Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 12 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (12 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 11 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R3 – 9: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R10 – 19: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 2 (8 3/8″ foot) – Child US Size 2.5 (8.5″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 10: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R11 – 20: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 3 (8 5/8″ foot) – Child US Size 3.5 (8 7/8″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 10: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R11 – 21: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 4 (9″ foot) – Child US Size 4.5 (9 1/8″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 11: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R12 – 22: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 5 (9 3/8″ foot) – Child US Size 5.5 (9 1/2″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 11: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R12 – 23: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 6 (9 5/8″ foot) – Child US Size 6.5 (9 7/8″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 12: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R13 – 24: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Child US Size 7 (10″ foot) – Child US Size 7.5″ (10 1/8″ foot) Diameter 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 12: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each around. Join.
R13 – 25: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to bottom for Finish…
Finish:
Chain 1, Turn slipper inside out.
Line the stitches up.
Working through both layers, insert hook into the first stitch…
… yarn over…
… pull through both loops…
… and the loop on the hook to complete a slip stitch.
Continue to slip stitch across the back of slipper to close up. Fasten off, and weave in ends.
The finished slippers will seem too small at first, but that’s normal! They will stretch to fit.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Slipper Socks using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.
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wow, what an amazing resource! thanks so much for sharing and for sharing on craft schooling sunday, here’s to warm cozy feet!
Definitely! Cheers! 😉
These look really cool, thank you for sharing the pattern at The Really Crafty Link Party. Pinned.
Thanks, Teresa! The kids enjoyed the ones I made for them 🙂
The size 7 & 7.5 has to be wrong for the opening part. Just 3 rows doesn’t give you enough room to put a foot in the slipper after it’s joined.
Mhmm. Could you put it on your little ones foot, and measure to tell me how many more rows it should be?
I’m making for grand kids. I’m in NY & they’re in TX. Im just going to play with rows &try to get the opening correct.
Why is the size 10 child smaller than the size 5 child?
US size shoes are designed in the way I have them listed. If you aren’t sure what size your child is, I recommend measuring the foot length, and going by that.
This pattern has been retested, and updated.
Where do I download the free PDF for
Quick and Easy Slipper Socks, please someone help me, I don’t see the download button anywhere, yet it states it’s free!
It is a free pattern viewable completely in this post. Right above the Materials you will find links to purchase a PDF if desired. This fee for the PDF is to compensate for a loss in pageviews when you no longer need to return to my blog to view the pattern.
was wondering about this: Chain 5. Join to create a ring. Chain 1. 12 HDC into 1st chain.
or is it 12 hdc into the ring?
Oops! Yes. It was a copy from instructions of another size that is worked into a chain rather than ring. I can see I did it on a few sizes. Thank you for catching that! Sorry for the confusion. It should say to work those stitches into the ring.
My child’s foot is 5 inches long. Can I still make this pattern work?
I would follow the instructions for the smallest size, but work the first repeat to 5 rows, and the second repeat to 11 rows.
Love this!! As someone whose feet are always cold, simple slippers pattern are always appreciated.
So glad you like it! I wear mine year ’round because my feet are always cold too.
I need to make a size 2 child size. Upon reading the directions it is made exactly the same as a woman’s size 5 but with one more row. Is this correct?
All of the slippers are worked based off of foot measurements, which comparing these two sizes they appear to be nearly the same. The kids sizes are worked with just 1″ in stretch, while the women’s sizes are worked with 2″ in stretch. Short answer, the patterns are correct as is.
Hi
I guess I don’t understand why both children’s and women’s sizes are 24 stitches. Shouldn’t children’s sizes be less?
Scrolling through the children’s sizes, you’ll see it varies depending on the size. Feel free to adjust down to better fit your child if needed.
Is there supposed to be 18 rounds in the toddler size 9? It seems like it may be a typo since the next bigger size only has 16 rounds. 🙂
That’s quite possible. I will have to take a closer look, and do some quick math. It’s designed to be 1″ smaller than the foot, and each row adds 0.38″ if that helps at the moment. I will take a look at this tomorrow.
I just updated the pattern. Toddler size 9 is 15 rounds. Sorry for the inconvenience, but thank you for catching this!