This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet my Mens Quick and Easy Slipper Socks – an easy slipper pattern worked in simple half double crochet stitches with your favorite worsted weight yarn.
Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
I have been working on this pattern for a while now. It’s one of those things that you start… put down… pick back up… put back down… and then finally finish. I am happy to share this Quick & Easy Slipper Sock Crochet Pattern in 13 Men’s Sizes!
This pattern has been tested several times by myself with different sizes on my friends, as well as slippers being washed multiple times. This slipper pattern is comprised of simple half double crochets.
Before we go on, it’s important to measure the diameter, and the finished slipper BEFORE trying on. Red Heart Super Saver is a great yarn for so many different projects, but it’s also a little inconsistent. Just because you gauge with one color, does not mean you will meet gauge worked in another color – I’ve learned this the hard way. I am providing the diameters to check against, and the finished slipper should be about 2″ smaller than the actual foot length. I recommend measuring every time you make a pair.
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Women’s Quick & Easy Slipper Socks in 9 US Sizes
Kids Quick and Easy Slipper Socks in Toddler & Big Kids Sizes
Materials:
- 90 – 170 Yards (Small Amount) of a heavier Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Red Heart’s Super Saver
- I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
Material Notes:
Yarn Alternatives: Bernat’s Super Value Yarn, Caron’s One Pound, Hobby Lobby’s Crafters Secret.
I did make and test out some slippers using Vanna’s Choice Yarn, and while they worked up well, the yarn wasn’t as durable as the Super Saver yarn and became rather frizzy rather quickly. I also choose the Super Saver yarn because it has a nice cushion to it, and feels quite nice as it hugs your feet. For anyone with concerns regarding the rough feel – it will get softer after the first wash.
Time Spent:
Roughly 1 hour 15 minutes to 2 hours (depending on size).
Sizes Included:
Included are Men’s US sizes 6 through 18. Foot sizes are included below. Choose the one best suited for your foot. Half sizes included for reference, but slipper size will be to whole size.
Gauge:
- Recommended: Follow instructions for the crown of the slipper, and check diameter to meet gauge.
- Straight Stitches: 12 HDC by 7 Rows – 4″ x 3″
Abbreviations (US Term):
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
Shoe sizes are not the same throughout – I have learned that through much research as I am sure many of you have realized while shoe shopping. Foot lengths are included below – choose the one that best suits your foot. For example, I wear a size 8.5 sneaker and 9 sandal. My foot size is 10″ so following the numbers below, I made myself a pair of the size 8 – 8.5 slippers.
Having the beginning increase split on either side of the beginning chain helps keep the seam straight, and also adds to the ease of keeping a looser tension.
Joining is to be done into the first half double crochet, not the beginning chain.
I suggest weaving in beginning tail after finishing round 3.
Slipper FAQ:
How do I start with a chain 3? Do I still need to make a ring? With 8/9 half double crochets in the first round, the circle does not lay flat – it cups rather, so to counter balance this cupping, we start with a chain 3, and work our round into the very first chain, instead of a ring. Make sure to leave a longer than normal tail as it will take some length away from it with the addition of stitches.
Where do I join the first round? You will slip stitch join to the first stitch of the round. If you are unsure of which stitch this is, count backwards from where your last stitch is counting it as one. In this example, I have 8 stitches.
What do you mean that you split the beginning increase? And what does “1 HDC in the next/first stitch” mean? I split my beginning increase to help keep my seam straight. I work the first stitch as normal into the first stitch of the round which is to the left of the beginning chain (indicated by the arrow on the left), and then I work the second stitch of that first increase into the same stitch as the first, but to the right of the beginning chain (indicated by the arrow on the right). By hugging the beginning chain, the seam remains straight, rather than slanted.
What if I don’t want the seam to show on the top of my slipper? I designed this slipper to be really easy with minimal sewing, so the seam shows on the top, but if you don’t want the seam to show, you can fasten off your yarn after the first half of the slipper is done, flip the piece 180 degrees around so the seam is even along the back, then find the center of the new front, and join your yarn to begin the second half of the slipper.
What is the difference between working around, and across? Working around means joined rounds, and working across means rows back and forth with no join. There are two halves to this slipper, the first half worked in rounds to fit over the foot, and the second half worked in rows to create the opening for the foot.
Where are the instructions for the heel? Indicated in each size are instructions to “scroll down to finish” where we seam up the back opening of the slipper to make it wearable.
How to Crochet Quick and Easy Slipper Socks Video Tutorial (shown in Women’s size 9):
Pattern:
Men’s US Size 6 (9 3/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 6.5 (9.5″ foot); Diameter = 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 11: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R12 – 20: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 7 (9 5/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 7.5 (9 7/8″ foot); Diameter = 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 12: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R13 – 21: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 8 (10″ foot) – Men’s US Size 8.5 (10 1/8″ foot); Diameter = 2.75″
Chain 3. 8 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (8 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (16 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 7x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (24 HDC)
R4 – 12: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R13 – 22: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 9 (10 3/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 9.5 (10.5″ foot); Diameter = 2.93″ or 2 15/16″
Chain 3. 9 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 8 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (18 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 8x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (27 HDC)
R4 – 13: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R14 – 23: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 10 (10 5/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 10.5 (10 7/8″ foot); Diameter = 2.93″ or 2 15/16″
Chain 3. 9 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 8 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (18 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 8x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (27 HDC)
R4 – 13: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R14 – 24: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 11 (11″ foot) – Men’s US Size 11.5 (11 1/8″ foot); Diameter = 2.93″ or 2 15/16″
Chain 3. 9 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 8 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (18 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 8x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (27 HDC)
R4 – 14: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R15 – 25: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 12 (11 3/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 12.5 (11.5″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 14: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R15 – 26: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 13 (11 5/8″ foot) – Men’s US Size 13.5 (11 7/8″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 15: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R16 – 27: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 14 (12″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 15: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R16 – 28: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 15 (12 3/8″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 15: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R16 – 29: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 16 (12 5/8″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 16: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R17 – 29: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 17 (13″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 16: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R17- 30: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Men’s US Size 18 (13 3/8″ foot); Diameter = 3″
Chain 3. 10 HDC into 1st chain. Join. (10 HDC)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 1st HDC, 2 HDC in each of the next 9 HDC’s around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (20 HDC)
R3: Chain 1, turn. Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs, (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 9x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch. Join. (30 HDC)
R4 – 17: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join.
R18 – 31: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. DON’T Join.
Scroll to Bottom for Finish…
Finish:
Chain 1, Turn slipper inside out.
Line the stitches up.
Working through both layers, insert hook into the first stitch…
… yarn over…
… pull through both loops…
… and the loop on the hook to complete a slip stitch.
Continue to slip stitch across the back of slipper to close up. Fasten off, and weave in ends.
The finished slippers will seem too small at first, but that’s normal! They will stretch to fit.
Please feel free to make and sell your own Slipper Socks using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.
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I'm saving up all the slipper patterns for next winter and then I think I'll have a slipper-a-thon!
Sounds like an awesome plan! Let me know if you want to team up on a project 🙂
Is there a video?
Unfortunately, no videos at this time. Are you stuck on a specific part?
Yes sorta. I'm confused about "R4 – 14: Chain 1, turn. HDC in 1st HDC, and each across. Join." what do you mean by each across. I'm also confused 2 because my work is a circle is it supposed to be circle? Did I miss something? Wish I could take a picture and show you.
Rounds 1, 2 & 3 should make a flat circle, then rounds 4 through 14 are worked in the round to create a cup that will fit over the toes and cover about the first half of the foot, then you work the remaining rounds with no join to accommodate the ankle and heel.
If you’re not joining 16-28 (after doing the rounds, are you then working in rows instead of rounds? If so, then I don’t understand the joining at the end of the pattern. Your photos look like the rows 16-28 do not go all the way around. Please clarify this. I have never made slippers before for anyone, and my friend wants 2 pairs. He says his size is 14, so that’s what I’m using with your pattern. Please help me understand the pattern. I have crocheted all my life, but never did slippers. Your pattern is the only one I found, that has his size.
You’re right – I misspoke in the previous comment’s reply. The remaining are worked in rows back and forth. The finishing instructions explain what it is for. As you work the pattern, you will understand the instructions provided.
thank you so much. im almost half way down with my first slipper!
Just keep working it as written and you will see the opening that is created by not joining.
I love this pattern; however I think I'm doing something wrong (my stitches might be too tight). I'm doing the men's size 7-7.5 and after 21 rows it's only 6 inches long.
Each row worked should add 3/8" to the length. Your finished slipper should be 7 5/8" to 7 7/8", so just continue adding rows. You may also want to check the first half of the slipper. It should be about half the foot length.
Ok; I think it is me. I'm kind of OCD about my stitches and I like tight stitches. I've thought about just using the pattern for one of the bigger sizes.
You can adjust any size to fit your tension using the same manner I mentioned in my previous manner. Just keep your tape measure handy for measuring as you go, jot down your notes for the second slipper so they match, and it's best not to try on the slipper as you go as it will give you incorrect measurements.
Your pattern explanation is somewhat confusing. When one crochets in the round, one should not be turning the work at all. Perhaps you should delete the "turn" notation from r1 to r14ish, until you finally get to the part where you don't join and you actually have to turn the work.
This is incorrect – working in the round does not mean that you do not turn. Some patterns, may be worked turning after each round, like these slippers, and some don't turn. In this particular pattern, you are turning to help keep your seam straight as it is the center focal while you are wearing them.
This may be a dumb question, but at the end of the first round (I'm making the men's size 10-10.5), where it says "Join", do I join in the first HDC that I created? I somehow created an extra stitch and I don't know if that's because I joined incorrectly or what, cause I did make 9 HDCs in the first round like it said.
The majority of my designs are written with joining to the first stitch not chain. In this pattern too. Always important to check the notes section before beginning though, because designsrs
Do change things up periodically, or techniques do vary from one designer to another.
I recommend taking the extra stitch out before continuing. 10 stitches will produce a slightly wider slipper that may fit bigger than desired.
Also I am confused with R3 directions where it says "Work 1 HDC in the 2 HDCs (2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC) 8x around, 1 HDC in the next/first stitch." So after the "Ch 1 and turn" part, do we work 1 HDC in the first stitch, and then do the [2 HDC in the next HDC, 1 HDC in the next HDC] pattern 8 times? Or do we go right into that sequence?
It should say to work into the first two half double crochet, then you follow into the repeat. I will add that when I get home. Thank you for bringing it to my attention, sorry for the confusion!
No problem! I figured it out now. Thank you for the clarification!
For the finishing instructions, I am confused by "Working through both layers, slip stitch across back of slipper to close up". What exactly do you mean by "both layers"? And do I just add a row of slip stitch after finishing R24? Right now my slipper kind of looks like there is no heel to it.
After you chain one, and turn your slippers inside out, you lay the slipper flat, which will give you two layers to work through. Insert your hook through both layers, and work a slip stitch as normal. This slip stitch process closes up the back of the slipper.
Oh I understand now. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing at The Really Crafty Link Party. I’m saving all these patterns to make them for the family as soon as I can. Pinned.
Definitely a great gift idea, and for stashbusting. Enjoy 🙂
Very nice men’s slipper pattern. Want to make a pair for a senior cousin who is having leg surgery.
If his feet are as big as my hubby’s (cousin) I will need lots of yarn. LOL
Hehehe – very nice gift!
I made a size 14 for my husband, I put puff paint for fabric on the bottom, to help prevent slipping.
Good idea! Bet he’s loving them right now with all the cold weather.
Thank You so much for this pattern!!!!! I have been searching for a long time for Men’s Slippers for my Dad. I already finished the pattern but now I am adding an ankle cuff. My Dad wanted a long cuff. I hope he likes them. This is my first time making Mens slippers. I only made Women’s. I will definitely be making the Women’s one for his wife and myself!!!!!
Love the idea of a cuff. I have been playing with the idea of trying a pair for myself.
I will also be using Sock Stop on the bottom for him. He just had hip replacement surgery and is up and walking now.
I will have to look into this “Sock Stop”.
Easiest and quickest pattern i found so far!
This is a keeper! 😊 thank you for sharing it with us
That makes me very happy to hear. So very welcome!
Love the crochet slipper pattern! I was so easy and cute that my grand daughter wants another pair. This time in pink!
Thanks so much for all your work!
That’s wonderful to hear! One of the things I really like about it is that it works up so quickly so you can work up several colors for whatever the mood (that’s what I did, hehe).
Hi,
I’m still new to this and question about starting. Chain 3 & 8 hdc in 1st chain & Join. Is the 1st chain from the hook or your very 1st chain you did? I’m making a men’s 8.
It’s into the 1st chain. The second and third chains create the space needed to act as a ring once you join.
I have made a few pair of slippers and need to be on the look-out to decide on another pair. I think I’ll try these. Thank you.
Glad you like them! Can’t wait to see 🙂
This pattern is literally a blessing! My husband has big feet and for the life of me I couldn’t find him a pair of slippers to wear around the house or a pattern that could accommodate to his size! Thank you so much for making this, it will be put to good use!
This makes me so happy to hear 🙂
Lovely pattern! Although I recommend anyone planning to do this, make sure you guage swatch. I did and came up about an inch short in both dimensions. Also, check the finished slipper on the foot of the person they’re made for if you can before weaving in your ends. I’m going to have to add some extra rows to the opening to get it to fit on my fiancee’s foot, as i made the ones in men’s size 15 to make up for my tight stitches (she’s a size 13 in men’s), and it barely fit over my (size 9 women’s) heel. The part that goes over the toes was the perfect size though.
Just a heads up for anyone who’s like me and ends up having to wing patterns because of tight stitching lol. Thankfully this pattern is very adaptable!
So glad you like it, and that you were able to adjust it to work for you. Each one is designed to be about 2″ shorter in finished length than the given foot length to allow for the yarn stretch.