Electric Raspberry Top – Crochet Pattern Review – Maz Kwok

Crochet Pattern Review of the Electric Raspberry Top by Maz Kwok.

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I received a custom order in my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop for the Electric Raspberry Top by Maz Kwok. I have been a long time follower of Maz Kwok and Be a Crafter (her two blogs), and jumped at the chance to try out this pattern.

The request was for a size 2X, and the colors as close to the original as possible. I questioned a wool or cotton blend, and when cotton was the fiber of choice, I sent over the link to Berroco’s Modern Cotton DK – my number one cotton blend choice for crocheting garments and accessories. It was decided on Rosecliff, which is a bright pink, and Coffee Milk, which looked more dark golden-ish/orangey on the site, but is actually more like a lighter golden color. Together (and apart), I think the colors are gorgeous.

Materials I Used:

• About 1,000 Yards of Berroco’s Modern Cotton DK (a Lightweight #3 Yarn) – 2.5 Skeins of Rosecliff [Pink] and 0.5 a Skein of Coffee Milk [Light Gold-ish]
• G6/4mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
• Electric Raspberry Top, Paid Crochet Pattern by Maz Kwok

Material Notes:

The pattern states yardage required is 900 – 1200 yards, so I ordered three skeins of my main color, and one of my coordinating color, but I really only used two and a half (or less), and half (or less) respectively for the 2X size.

Time Spent:

To make the 2X size, it took me about 11 and a half hours.

Sized For:

Pattern includes sizes S through 2X. The sizings run one size small – ie the size small says it’s for a chest size 30-32″, which is actually the bust size for a size extra small.

Pattern Notes:

I met gauge with the G6/4mm crochet hook working in the round, as the pattern is worked. It’s not specified in the pattern though, so this could vary – I have emailed the designer, Maz, for clarification.

The fitting for this top is fitted with negative ease. I worked the size 2X, and it came to measure 17.5″ wide, which is 35″ in circumference to fit a bust size of 44″ to 46″. The yarn does stretch to fit comfortable, but it is fitted, and does stretch the stitches out a little. I usually only give about -6″ for myself. Keep this in mind when choosing a size.

If you need to, you can make the top smaller or larger by subtracting or adding 4 stitches.

The pattern does not have instructions to chain at the beginning of any of the rounds, and this is touched on in the notes section. Maz uses a chainless double crochet, but you can always use a regular chain two and count it as the first double crochet – whichever you are most comfortable with. Just remember, whichever you choose, work this as the first stitch of the round/row. Example, Row 20 starts as “(3 dc across…”, so the first of those double crochets will be either a chainless double crochet or chain two.

The beginning of the top is worked in solid double crochets worked in the round with no turning. Without modification, this produces a visible diagonal seam. To keep my seam straight, I worked the same method I use for all my beanies.

My method involves alternating two stitch placements. In one of the rounds, I work the beginning chain, then work the first stitch into the second stitch of the round, and my last stitch is actually worked into the same as the beginning chain, but just to the right of the chain. The next round is worked with the beginning chain, and then the first stitch is worked into the first stitch of the round. The last stitch is worked into the stitch just before the beginning chain. I alternate this back, and forth, and it keeps my seam straight. I hope this makes sense!

One thing to consider when working the shell pattern of the body is the final length. Mine measured 17.63″ plus the strap height, the overall top finished around 24″ in length, which is the standard top length for a 2X top, but knowing the preferred lengths of makers, this is a little on the shorter side. You can always add more repeat rounds to the shell pattern to add length.

The final edging of shells will most likely roll up. You can finger press them down, or wet block, or add additional rounds to add weight.

After I sewed in the last end, I put the top on for fun (knowing it would be a little big on me). To my surprise, it wasn’t too large, but I did notice that the straps (worked as written) were too small and uncomfortable for me who wears a large, so I knew there was no way they would fit nicely as a 2X.

I cut my straps in (since I had already sewn the ends in), and reworked them to a repeat of 37 rows, to measure 14″ in length (4″ smaller than the standard armhole depth of a size 2X to accomodate some stretch). If you are making the top for you, you can always slip stitch the strap in place, and try it on to see how it fits.

The last thing is the tie. I missed the instruction that said with two strands held together, but it says to chain to desired length. This is hard to do when you don’t know what length you really want, or should do. I am currently working on a sash to go with a sweater, and to determine the size I wanted, I used a tape measure to tie around my waist in a bow, and determine how long it should be, which I determined to be about 80″.

I figured for a size 2X, I would want a tie a little larger. My original goal was 90″, but I ended up only getting 86″, and it looked reaallyy long, so I left it as is. To add stability to mine, and defined ends, I worked it as “chain 4. Slip stitch join to form a ring. Chain 1. 5 SC into the ring. Chain 549. Slip stitch join into the 4th chain from the hook. Chain 1. 5 SC into the ring. Slip stitch into the back bump of each chain all the way down. Slip stitch join, and fasten off.”

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