Free Granny Stitch Elf Hat Crochet Pattern | Grace Tinley Elf Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Learn how to crochet the Grace Tinley Elf Hat, a fun holiday crochet hat worked in the classic granny stitch pattern and your favorite worsted weight yarn using this free crochet hat pattern.

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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.

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Originally, I was going to remake the Grace Tinley Beanie in Christmas colors to share, but once I got started I jumped to an Elf Hat and absolutely LOVE how it came out! I even wore it out the very day I finished and thank goodness! It was very windy that night.

Free Granny Stitch Crochet Patterns:

Grace Tinley Scarf

Grace Tinley Rectangle Shawl

Ad-Free, Printer Friendly PDF:

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Materials:

• 350 Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used about half a skein each of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Red and Jelly Beann [Green] and a small amount of White
• I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential

Material Notes:

If you’ll be creating and donating your for cancer patients, I’ve learned from my friend Krissy of Krissy’s Over the Mountain Crochet that as a beanie for cancer patients, the best yarn for a sensitive head is going to be a bamboo blend, like Berroco Modern Cotton or Lion Brand Coboo. Some can tolerate 100% acrylic or wool, but not all can. With this said, if you’ll be donating your beanie, I recommend looking up the requirements from the organization. Some say not to use wool yarns. Some say not to use Red Heart Super Saver (though I think this is a great yarn that really softens nicely after washing, and wears and washes so well). Some request the beanies to be washed prior to donating. Each has it’s own set of guidelines so you’ll want to check with the organization first.

As a cold weather beanie, animal fibers are better for keeping warm against the wind, and while alpaca works great, my go-to is always a 100% superwash merino wool, like WeCrochet Swish Yarn, or a wool and acrylic blend, like Lion Brand Wool Ease and Berroco Vintage. All of these that I’ve mentioned hold up well to wear and tear and machine washing and drying.

I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!

Time Spent:

I had this hat ready to go in just about two hours including my weaving.

Measurements:

The hat has a crown of 6 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 21 1/4″ to fit a head size of 22” – 23″, and is 25″ in length.

If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around your head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 2” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. 2” is the amount of stretch for acrylic, wool, and similar.

Gauge (Essential):

Measured in Pattern.

Gauge it very important for beanies. If you do not meet gauge, and continue making your beanie, the finished size will either be too small or too big so make sure to stop and check it. If you’re measuring smaller than the given measurements, go up a crochet hook size, and if you’re measuring larger, go down a crochet hook size. Rework the sample, take gauge again, and see where you are.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

• DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
• FPSC – Front Post Single Crochet
• FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
• BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet

Post stitches are worked around the post of the previous rounds stitch rather than into the top of the stitch. The post is found directly underneath the top of the stitch.

It’s very easy to add stitches in post stitch rounds because sometimes it’s hard to determine where to work the next stitch after the post stitch since the top of the post stitch you just finished will appear unworked. In the first round of the ribbed pattern, it’s easiest to reference the posts of the double crochets from the previous row. See where your last post stitch was worked, then move to the post of the stitch to the left, follow it up and you’ll find the top of the stitch directly above it.

To Front Post Double Crochet: Yarn over, then swoop your hook downward and towards the front so your hook stays on the front side of the fabric. From the front to the back, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the right of the desired stitch. Wrap the crochet hook around the back of the desired stitch. From the back to the front, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the left of the desired stitch. At this point, the desired stitch will appear raised on the front of the fabric. Yarn over and pull directly through (3 loops on your hook). (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 2x.

To Back Post Double Crochet: Yarn over, then swoop your hook downward and backward so your hook goes to the back of the fabric. From the back to the front, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the right of the desired stitch. Wrap the crochet hook around the front of the desired stitch. From the front to the back, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the left of the desired stitch. At this point, the desired stitch will appear raised on the back of the fabric. Yarn over and pull directly through (3 loops on your hook). (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 2x.

To Front Post Single Crochet: Swoop your hook downward and towards the front so your hook stays on the front side of the fabric. From the front to the back, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the right of the desired stitch. Wrap the crochet hook around the back of the desired stitch. From the back to the front, insert your hook into the space in between the stitches so that your hook comes out just to the left of the desired stitch. At this point, the desired stitch will appear raised on the front of the fabric. Yarn over and pull directly through (2 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

Pattern Notes:

Join to the first stitch.

Beginning chain 2 does not count as stitch unless otherwise stated.

The pattern is written to reflect my joining. The portion in brackets { } is only to be followed in the first round of the group, since the rounds are in groups of two. I suggest changing colors in each space, rather than the slip stitch join – I worked my color changes in the last slip stitch of the next round. If you decide to fasten off at the end of each color change, join the new color in a space.

My suggestion to working in multiple colors though would be to carry up the yarn so you don’t end up with a bunch of ends to weave in. Check out my How to Carry Up Yarn in the Round the EyeLoveKnots Way post for my trick!

Granny Stitch Elf Hat Crochet Pattern:

With I9/5.5mm hook and Green, Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2, work 12 DC into the ring. Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. 2 DC in the first DC, skip 2 DCs, (3 DC into the next DC, skip the next 2 DCs) 3x. Join to the first DC. Join. (4 Clusters)

R3: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 3x. Join.

R4 – 5: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 3x. Join.

*I suggest turning piece inside out and weaving in beginning tail, and tail of Red yarn (or your second color of choice).

R6 – 7: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 3x. Join.

R8 – 29: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 3x. Join.

R30: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, 3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space. Join. (6 clusters)

R31: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 5x. Join.

R32 – 33: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 5x. Join.

R34: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, 3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space. Join. (8 clusters)

R35: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 7x. Join.

R36 – 37: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 7x. Join.

R38: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, (3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space) 3x, 3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space. Join. (12 clusters)

R39: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 11x. Join.

R40: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, (3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space) 3x, 3 DC into the next space chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space. Join. (16 clusters)

R41: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 15x. Join.

R42: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, (3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space) 3x, 3 DC into the next space chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space. Join. (20 clusters)

R43: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 19x. Join. 

R44: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space, (3 DC into the next space, chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space) 3x, 3 DC into the next space chain 1, 3 DC into the same space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space, 3 DC into the next space. Join. (24 clusters)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 3/4″.

R45: Slip stitch over into next space. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 23x. Join.

R46 – 47: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Green}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 23x. Join.

R48 – 50: Slip stitch over into next space {and Join in Red}. Chain 2. 2 DC in the same space. (3 DC into the next space) 23x. Join.

R51: With White, Chain 2 (counts as a DC). DC into each DC around. Join and switch to H8/5mm hook.

R52 – 54: With H8/5mm hook, Chain 2 (will count as a BPDC). FPDC around the next post, (BPDC around the next post, FPDC around the next post) around. Join. (48 DC)

R55 : Chain 1. (FPSC around next FPDC, SC into the next stitch) around. Join. (48 SC)

Fasten Off, and Weave in Remaining Ends.

Finishing:

Originally, I wasn’t going to add a pom pom because I don’t like not being able to throw my hat in the wash, but when I put it on I knew it needed it to be complete – though now I realize I could have attached it with a button so it could be removeable. I simply wrapped the yarn around four of my fingers 100 times and then completed the pom pom process, trimmed and sewed onto the end of the hat. Feel free to leave off, use a faux fur pom pom or a fun tassel.

Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.

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