Heart Pixel Art Square – Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern for how-to crochet my Heart Pixel Art Square – a 16″ Square worked in lightweight yarn.

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I have had this Heart Pixel Art Square on my mind for a while, so when I started brainstorming what I wanted to share in the month of January, and had Valentine’s on my brain, I knew it was the perfect time to make this square happen.

Though a little time consuming, pixel art projects are so fun! I think I like most that it kind of resembles a quilt, but also that it uses my favorite join-as-you method – the Pull Loop Through Method! Makes for an easy join, and no worrying about how to assemble later – can’t say I enjoy sewing squares together. BUT! If you do, you could always make the squares separately, and then use the mattress stitch (or your preferred technique) to join them later.

What can we do with this square? It’s the perfect size for a 16″ throw pillow (see my Acorn Throw Pillow Free Crochet Pattern to see how to do this), use it as an afghan square, and build a blanket, add more squares all around to make a larger blanket, use it as a doily, attach it to a dowel rod, and hang it, use it as the star of the show for a sweater/top, even changing up the weight of yarn used will open doors!

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Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy: Heart Pixel Art Square.

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Materials:

• 640 Yards of Lightweight #3 Yarn – I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight Yarn in Cloudy [Gray] (210 Yards), and I Love This Sport Weight Yarn in Red (225 Yards), and Cranberry (205 Yards)
• G6/4mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle

Material Notes:

Yarn Alternative: Berroco’s Vintage DK.

Any weight yarn will also work for this project with respective crochet hook. Different weights will produce different sized squares.

Time Spent:

This square took me about 7 hours to complete – I worked about a row a day, including the weaving for that row.

Measurements:

With border, the heart square measures 16″.

Gauge:

First square measures 2″.

Gauge for this project isn’t essential, as long as your squares are consistent in size. Keep in mind, smaller or larger squares will produce smaller or larger projects.

Abbreviations:

• DC – Double Crochet
• SC – Single Crochet
• sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together (decrease)
• PLT – Pull Loop Through (Join)
• To PLT: After DC, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through the corresponding stitch on MB and pull loop through

Pattern Notes:

The beginning chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain 3, and the beginning chain 2 counts as the first double crochet.

Join to the second chain of the beginning chain, not the first stitch, except in the border – here you’ll join to the first single crochet.

You may work this art piece with a variety of joining methods, but I joined mine using the Pull Loop Through Method, and this pattern will be written as such. If you choose to work all the squares first, and then sew them together, you will need: 34 in Cloudy, 5 in half Cloudy and Red split diagonally, 4 in half Cloudy and Cranberry split diagonally, 9 in Cranberry, and 10 in Red.

In the instructions, I refer to MA, MB and MD. These are the motifs. MA is the current motif you are working on. MB is the first one you join to, MC is skipped and MD is the second one you join to, which is diagonal from MB. I only refer to these motifs in the one and two join instructions. I also mention MC in the bi-colored square instructions. Here, this refers to Main Color.

I highly recommend weaving in your ends as you complete each row, otherwise, at the end you could be left with so many ends, this square may end up in your WIPs bin, instead of being completed.

Work 1 Complete 3” Solid Granny Square in Gray

This square will be the bottom right square of the piece.

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 3x, DC into the next 2 DCs. Join, and fasten off. (28 DC)

Working with the Join-as-you-Go PLT Method, you will have squares that require one join, and squares that require two joins – these are described below.

To Work Square with 1 Join:     

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 2x, DC into the last 2 DCs. Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

To Work Square with 2 Joins:

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1]; [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space], DC into the last 2 DCs. Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

Heart Pixel Art Square Graph:

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Following this chart, continue working solid granny squares and joining them as outlined above. I began with Row 1, and my first completed square being the square closest to the “R1”. The purple line shows that the second square worked (to the left of the 1st) only requires 1 join, as does the 3rd and so on in Row 1. Beginning in Row 2, you will start working with 2 joins. The first square worked of Row 2 (furthest right square) only requires 1 join to the 1st square of Row 1, but each square after requires 2 joins. I worked from the furthest right square of each row all the way to the end of the row, and weaved in my ends at the end of each row.

Bi-colored squares are highlighted in the image. #10, #19, #26, #53 and #55 are half Gray and half Red, while #13, #22, #31, #50, and #52 are half Gray and half Cranberry.

Using the instructions below, work in your bi-colored squares. Take note that Round 1 of each of these is the same as the 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square listed below, but Round 2 varies as they are worked to best suit working in the manner as I have outlined. If you are working them differently, you will need to adjust as best for you.

I am only including Round 1 for the single bi-colored solid granny square. If you are working individual squares and using a different joining method, such as a Single Crochet Join, then you will need to go to my 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square the EyeLoveKnots Way for the complete pattern (two rounds), replacing the main color with the one you will be using.

Round 1 of 3″ Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square:

With MC, Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2, 2 DC into the ring, chain 3, 3 DC into the ring, pull Gray through, [holding Gray over index finger and MC between middle finger and thumb, insert hook under MC to pull up a loop on hook, pull up Gray over hook and complete chain. Move the MC strand behind the Gray strand] 2x, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, hold strands the same as before and complete the DC. Move the MC strand to the back, work 2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC over the MC tail, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, hold the strands the same as before, pull over the MC, yarn over and complete the 1st half of the DC, move the MC strand to the back and repeat to complete the 2nd half of the DC, but don’t move the MC strand. Drop Gray, pull through MC to complete 1 chain, chain 2. Join, and fasten off both strands.

Squares #12 (#19 & #26) [Gray+Red]:

R2: In Gray, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #4 & #5 (#11 & #12; #18 & #19), chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the one just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #11 (#18, #25), chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #11 (#18, #25)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #11 (#18, #25)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT #11 (#18, #25)] 2x. Chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #11 (#18, #25). Pull Red through, and fasten off Gray. Chain 1. 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Squares #13 (#22, & #31) [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: With Gray, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the chain space just finished on MA and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind SC into the center join of #5 & #6 (#14 & #15; #23 & #24), chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #12 & Row 1 (#21 & Row 2; #30 & Row 3). Pull Cranberry through (counts as SC) with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath , chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #12 (#21, #30), chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #50 [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: With Cranberry, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #42 & #43, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #42)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #42)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #42)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #49 & Row 6. Pull Gray through with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #49)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #49)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #49) 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #49, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #53 [Gray+Red]:

R2: With Red, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #45 & #46, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #45)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #45)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #45)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #52 & Row 6. Pull Gray through with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #52)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #52)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #52) 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #52, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #52 [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: In Cranberry, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #44 & #45, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #44), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #44)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #44)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #51 & Row 6, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #46)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x. Pull Gray through, and fasten off Cranberry. From behind, SC into the chain space of #51, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Square #55 [Gray+Red]:

R2: In Red, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #47 & #48, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #47), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #47)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #47)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #54 & Row 6, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #54)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #54)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #54)] 2x. Pull Gray through, and fasten off Red. From behind, SC into the chain space of #54, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Border:

With Gray, join yarn to top right corner. Chain 1. [SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches] 4x. Join with Red, and fasten off Gray. (315 SC)  

R2: With Red, Chain 1. SC into the 1st SC and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 78 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 77 SCs. Join with Cranberry, and fasten off Red. (324 SC)  

R3: With Cranberry, Chain 1. SC into the 1st 2 SCs and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 80 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 78 SCs. Join, and fasten off. (332 SC)

Sew in Final Ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Heart Pixel Art Square project using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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