Endless Summer Tote Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet the Endless Summer Tote Bag, which is comprised up of floral afghan squares, and a beautiful ribbed pattern.

This tote bag was originally designed for and published in the March 2019 issue of Knotions Magazine.

By now, you may have heard about my love for Hydrangea’s. I have shared a few projects made with my take on them…

Frilly Flowers – Free Crochet Pattern. Used these in my wedding bouquet!

Endless Summer Facial Scrubbies – Free Crochet Pattern.

Turqua Spring Wreath – Free Crochet Pattern. I also made the Pastel Hydrangea Wreath using this basic idea, and most recently, Ana’s Garden Wreath.

While there are so many different colorways that are simply stunning, I think what I like the most about them is the texture I see when I look at the bunch of little flowers all together. 

Originally, I was playing with a floral theme for this design, but I wasn’t sure just what I wanted to make. I thought about an afghan similar to the 3D rose ones you may have seen, but with my interpretation of the hydrangea. I started with one square, and then a bunch of ideas hit me – afghan squares are so versatile! But how about a tote bag that I could use to carry around my WIPs (work in progress) in?!

As far as the lining goes, in the past, I have crocheted other tote bags that I chose not to line, and I ended up really disappointed with how much they stretched out, so I made sure with this one that I added a lining to the bag itself, and the strap. I highly recommend if you will be carrying around anything with a little weight. A small yarn project, and yarn probably won’t be an issue, but otherwise it will just do a lot of stretching. If you aren’t very familiar with fabrics, and sewing, I like to use felt because it doesn’t fray, which means you don’t have to add a lot more seams. I think this is an easy fabric to start with. Keep in mind that lining prevents any stretching including the width.

If you don’t want to work a whole tote bag, you can use this pattern to make more of a clutch by simply subtracting rounds on the bag body, and then create a little flap to hold your goodies in, or you could add a zipper. You could also play with adding or subtracting squares to change up the size.

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Materials:

• 450 Yards of Worsted Weight #4 Yarn – I used Red Heart’s Super Saver in Soft White – a full skein, and small amounts of Turqua (Blue) and Tea Leaf (Green)
• H8/5mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends & Sewing Strap End
• Stitch Marker or Waste Yarn
• Tape Measure
• Optional for Sturdy Bag Bottom, 10.88″ Wide by 2.63″ Tall Piece of Stiff 7 Mesh Plastic Canvas (or Craftweight Interfacing)
• Optional for Lining, Sewing Pins
• Optional for Lining, Sewing Machine or Sewing Needle & Thread
• Optional for Lining, Less than 1 Yard of Felt (or more of another fabric) – I used Craft Felt Fabric from JoAnn’s in the Sandstone colorway

Material Notes:

I used Red Heart Super Saver, which is a pretty durable yarn, however, I think a cotton yarn such as Lily Sugar n Cream would have been a better option for something that will keep a lot of use, and dragged around from one place to another. The cotton option will also make the bag a little larger.

Yarn Alternatives similar to Super Saver: Bernat’s Super Value Yarn, Caron’s One Pound.

Yarn Alternatives similar to Lily Sugar n Cream: Bernat Handicrafter, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Rico Creative Cotton Aran.

Plastic canvas piece in the bottom panel is optional. This is used to make the bottom of the bag sturdy. Alternatively, you can use a piece of craftweight interfacing in place of the plastic canvas, or you can just join the two panels together without anything in between. If you are adding the plastic canvas (or interfacing), keep in mind that it will be cut smaller than the actual panel to avoid interference when working the panel join.

Measurements:

Finished bag body measures 12.75” (32.39 cm) wide by 15” (38.1 cm) tall, and strap measures 2.5” (6.35 cm) wide by 37” (93.98 cm) long (before sewing). Bag designed to hang at side, with top around natural waistline on a person 5’5” (165.1 cm), but sizing can easily be adjusted

Finished panel before sewing measures 10.88” (27.65 cm) wide by 2.63” (6.68 cm) tall.

Gauge:

• 1st Square: 4.75” (12.07 cm) OR
• In BLO Pattern (Body of Tote Bag): 17 SC by 15 Rows = 3.88” (9.86 cm) OR
• In HDC Pattern (Strap): 5 HDC by 11 Rows: 1.38” (3.5 cm) Wide by 3.75” (9.53 cm) Tall OR
• In SC Pattern (Bag Bottom): 40 SC by 10 Rows: 11” (27.94 cm) Wide by 3.5” (8.89 cm) Tall

Abbreviations:

• WS – Wrong Side
• SC – Single Crochet
• TR – Treble (or Triple) Crochet
• DC – Double Crochet
• HDC – Half Double Crochet
• PLT – Pull Loop Through.
• How To PLT: pull up on current loop (so it doesn’t fall out), insert hook from right side through corresponding stitch of previous square, grab loop with hook, tighten as normal, and pull through, then continue to work next stitch
• SC3TOG – Single Crochet Three Stitches Together to Decrease
• BLO – Back Loop Only

Pattern Notes:

When working in the round, traditionally, you hold your initial tail to the back of the ring, and then crochet over it. In these squares, the side you see while you are working is actually the wrong side, so to hide the tail, you will work the first stitch as usual, then pull the tail over to the side facing you, and work over like this.

Slip stitch join to the first stitch, not the beginning chain, unless otherwise noted.

I recommend weaving in your ends as you go (or at least in close sections) because it’s easier to reach them all, rather than wait until the end.

The pull loop through (plt) method is my favorite for joining because I don’t have to do any sewing, and it gives a fun look and texture to the seam, but if you don’t want to use this method, you can make all of your squares following the instructions for the first square, and then sew them together in a strip using your preferred method.

The bag body is worked in a continuous round, meaning no slip stitch join at the end of the round, to avoid a seam. Use a stitch marker, or piece of scrap yarn to mark the first stitch of each round. If you choose to slip stitch join at the end of the round instead, it will produce a moving seam that will disrupt the ribbed pattern, and change the overall height of your bag. 

Adjusting the length of the strap (or bag body) is really easy – simply add or subtract rows as desired. One full skein of color A (the soft white) will complete the bag as written, more rows to the strap (or bag) will require an additional skein of yarn.

I designed this bag so the top of the bag opening would lay around my natural waistline, and the actual bag would be around hip level when the strap was on crossbody wise. I planned this out knowing I would be lining my bag. The lining is optional, but keep in mind that heavier items in the bag without it lined will cause the bag to stretch A LOT. You will need to keep this in mind if you choose not to line your bag, maybe adjusting the number of rounds to the bag body, or number of rows to the strap. You can test the stretch by pinning the strap end in place, and then placing items in the bag while you wear it.

Squares:

R1 (WS): In Turqua, chain 5. Slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring. Turn to RS. [(SC, TR) into the ring] 5x. Join. (10 stitches)

R2: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, [(TR, SC) into the next stitch] 9x, TR into the 1st stitch. Join. (20 stitches)

R3: Chain 1. SC into the 2nd stitch, TR into the next stitch, [(SC, TR) into the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, (TR, SC) into the next stitch, TR into the next stitch] 4x, (SC, TR) into the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, TR into the 1st stitch. Join. (30 stitches) 

R4: Chain 1. SC into the 2nd stitch, TR into the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, [(SC, TR) into the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, TR into the next stitch] 9x, TR into the 1st stitch. Join Tea Leaf, and Fasten Off Turqua. (40 stitches)

R5: In Tea Green, chain 2, and turn. (2 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) into the 1st stitch, chain 2, skip 4, 3 HDC into the next stitch, chain 2, skip 4, [(3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) into the next st, chain 2, skip 4, 3 HDC into the next stitch, chain 2, skip 4] 3x. Join to the 2nd chain with Soft White, and Fasten Off Tea Leaf.

1st Square ONLY, R6: In Soft White, chain 1. HDC into the 1st 3 DC, [(2 HDC, chain 3, 2 HDC) into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 HDC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 DC] 3x, (2 HDC, chain 3, 2 HDC) into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 HDC, 2 HDC into the next chain space. Join, and Fasten Off. (68 stitches)

For the other squares, you’ll connect them using the PLT Method while finishing the outer round (which is Round 6).

2nd – 5th Squares ONLY, Round 6: In Soft White, chain 1. HDC into the 1st 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, chain 1, working from behind: slip stitch into the previous square’s chain space, chain 1, (HDC into the same chain space of the current square, PLT) 2x, (HDC into the next DC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, (HDC into the next HDC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, (HDC into the next DC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, chain 1, from behind: slip stitch into the previous square’s chain space, chain 1, rest in current square: 2 HDC into the same chain, [HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 HDC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 DC, (2 HDC, chain 3, 2 HDC) into the next chain space] 2x, HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 HDC, 2 HDC into the next chain space. Join, and Fasten Off.

6th Square ONLY, R6: In Soft White, chain 1. HDC into the 1st 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, chain 1, *working from behind: slip stitch into the previous square’s chain space, chain 1, (HDC into the same chain space of the current square, PLT) 2x, (HDC into the next DC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, (HDC into the next HDC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, (HDC into the next DC, PLT) 3x, HDC into the next chain space, PLT, HDC into the same chain space, PLT, chain 1, from behind: slip stitch into the previous square’s chain space, chain 1, 2 HDC into the same chain, HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, HDC into the next 3 HDC, 2 HDC into the next chain space**, HDC into the next 3 DC, 2 HDC into the next chain space, chain 1 rep from * to ** attaching the 6th square to the 1st square. Join, and Fasten Off.

Bottom – Make 2 panels: 

R1 (RS): Chain 41. SC into the 2nd chain, and across. (40 SC)

R2 – 10: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st SC, and across. Fasten Off 1st panel, but not 2nd.

Optional, plastic canvas bottom (or interfacing): 

Cut one piece of stiff plastic canvas to 69 holes by 15 holes [or interfacing to 10.38” by 2.38”]

Join bottom panels:

Lay one panel down WS facing up, then lay the canvas on top, and then the other panel with WS facing down.

Working through both layers and using the yarn from the 2nd panel (the one you didn’t fasten off), SC into the 1st 39 stitches, 3 SC into the last stitch, evenly SC 8 down the side, 3 SC into the next stitch, SC into the next 38 stitches, 3 SC into the next stitch, evenly SC 8 up the side, 2 SC into the 1st stitch. Join, and Fasten Off with long tail for sewing.

Attach bottom to bag body:

Turn the square strip of panels to the wrong side, and lay with 3 squares across. The corner center join is one stitch. Count from here to the left 7 stitches, and place a marker. Now count from center join to the right 7 stitches, and place another marker. Mirror this on the other side of the bag.

You can pin the bottom corners to these marked spots for ease in sewing.

Evenly sew bottom to the bag (I used a whipstitch), keeping in mind that there aren’t an even number of stitches.

Bag body – worked in a continuous round:

R1: Attach yarn into any stitch after a chain space. Chain 1, SC into this stitch, and the next 16 stitches, SC3TOG over the next chain space, center join, and next chain space, [SC into the next 7 stitches, SC3TOG over the same 3 stitches] 5x. (108 SC) 

R2: In BLO, loosely slip stitch into the 1st stitch, SC into the next 107 SC

R3 – 38: In BLO, SC into the next 108 stitches

R39: In BLO, SC into the next 7 stitches, in both loops, join to the next. (7 SC)

Strap:

Lay bag flat. Counting in 4 stitches from the edge (on both sides), place a marker. You should have 4 markers in total – 2 pairs 8 stitches apart.

R1 – 100: Chain 1, and turn. HDC into the 1st stitch, and across. (8 HDC)

Fasten Off with longer tail for sewing. Break loop from last stitch, and sew at markers on the other side of the bag.

Weave in ends.

Optional Lining:

I found it easiest to measure my strap before sewing it in place. If you make a different sized bag (shorter/longer bag body or strap), OR if you did not meet gauge/used a different weight yarn, and you want to add a lining, you will need to measure the bag. Lay bag flat, and measure both length and width of bag, as well as strap.

Cut felt 0.25” smaller than given measurements because you don’t want the lining to show over the crocheted stitches, with the exception of the strap length, which I added 1.5” to so the strap lining would overlap with the bag lining.

In the sewing world, you would sew the entire bag lining together first before sewing it to the rest, but I did not do it this way because my sewing skills aren’t as good as my crocheting skills, and I found it easier to do it the way explained below. I also choose felt because it is one of the easiest fabrics to work with because it does not fray, which means there is no need to fold the edges over, and sew down first. Fleece is another good option. If you choose a different fabric, like cotton, you will need to add a seam allowance of about 1” (2.54 cm) to your bag measurements in all directions before you cut the fabric so you can fold over the raw edges, and sew so the fabric doesn’t fray.

To cut lining, you can either make your own template out of tissue paper to the necessary measurements, then pin onto your fabric, and cut out, or you can use a fabric pen/chalk/pins to mark cutting lines on fabric. Because the bag is for me to personally use, I cut the second way.

Take time to measure your bag. It should measure as follows: strap is 2.5” wide by 37” long, and bag laying flat is 12.75” wide by 15” tall. If your bag DOES NOT measure this, see notes above for cutting fabric. If your bag DOES measure this, cut felt to 2.25” by 38.5” for strap, and 12.5” by 14.75”. 

You can use a sewing needle and matching thread to hand sew using a basic running stitch, or you can carefully use your sewing machine with the stitch length set to normal for sewing the lining sides together, and the longest setting when sewing the lining to the crocheted work.

Fold the strap lining in half, and mark the center. Unfold, line the center of the strap lining up with the center of the strap, and pin in place, then pin outward. Sew in place with a 0.25” allowance (means this measurement away from the edge of the fabric). Set aside.

Fold bag lining in half hamburger style (so even in half, it’s the squarest it can be), and sew bag lining sides closed, also with a 0.25” allowance. 

Place bag lining inside of bag. Use your fingers to press open the side seams, pin these sides in place first, then pin the rest of the bag lining the top of the lining up with the bottom of the last round of crochet. Make sure the bag lining is on top of strap lining where strap measures bag body. Sew in place using the same 0.25” allowance.

Now, ENJOY!

Please feel free to make and sell your own Endless Summer Tote Bag using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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