Gwendolyn Table Runner – Free Crochet Pattern | Easy Granny Square Table Runner

This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet my Gwendolyn Table Runner, which is an easy granny square table runner. With just simple granny squares joined together, it is so easy to make larger or smaller by simply adding or taking squares away.

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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.

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This bright blue (really turquoise/teal) is the winner of my heart. I’ve determined in the last few years that I really just love it, but also it’s such a versatile, fun color that can be used year ’round.

A couple of years ago, I shared a free crochet pattern for the Gwendolyn Doily, and this runner was inspired by that. I wanted a larger version that I could keep on my entryway table year ’round, and just change out the decor for it depending on the season.

By the way, this cactus candle you see above smells amazing! It’s a coconut soy candle from InspireLites on Etsy, and Baja Cactus Blossom is the scent – it’s sweet, and just so lovely! You can order yourself one of these awesome candles RIGHT HERE!

The beauty of this table runner is that it can easily be made larger or smaller by adding or substracting granny squares. They’re all joined together in the end with a continuous join. I love this join method because it means only one tail in the beginning, and one tail at the end, so only two weaves! I paired this with another favorite, the Pull Loop Through Join that gives a lovely twisted look around the squares, and the reverse single crochet edging matches it perfectly!

You may also recognize the runner from when I shared my Upcycled Potted Sunflowers.

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What Supplies Do I Need to Crochet a Table Runner?

• 810 Yards of Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn – I used about 4.25 balls of WeCrochet Dishie in the Azure colorway
• H8/5mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

Yarn Alternatives: Crafters Secret Cotton, Lily Sugar n Cream (it’s a touch thicker so the finished runner may come out a bit bigger – go down a hook size if you want to match better)

I am using cotton because it’s durable, and machine washes and dries well. If you intend on using with warm or moist items, I recommend the cotton (or wool), otherwise any fiber works.

Jewelry pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle. I never need with Dishie, but I do with others.

How Long Does It Take to Crochet a Table Runner?

This table runner took about 16 hours to complete, worked in several seatings.

Measurements:

14.38″ (14 3/8″) Wide by 46″ Tall

Gauge:

1 Square = 2.75″

Abbreviations – US Terms:

• DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
• SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
• RS – Right Side of the Fabric
• WS – Wrong Side of the Fabric
• PLT – Pull Loop Through (a join-as-you-go method)
• How to PLT: After DC in current piece, pull up a loop and pull out crochet hook, re-insert hook from the front through the corresponding stitch on Motif B [your corresponding piece] and pull loop through

Pattern Notes:

If you prefer, I have a step by step photo tutorial of how to work a granny square.

The assembly is worked as one continuous join so there aren’t that many ends to weave in (plus you can easily adjust the width and/or length using this method). This means one strand the whole way from square one to the end. The instructions are broken into three pieces for ease in reading and following – do not fasten off at any of these points.

In working the continuous join, you are working from the bottom right corner of the table runner, upward, working in a backwards “S” motion. Section I works from right to left, then section II works from left to right, and section III finishes the table runner working down directly down, and joins to the very first single crochet.

As you work the second, third and fourth rounds of the border, if you find your fabric is ruffling especially in the last round, then I suggest going down a hook size.

Gwendolyn Table Runner, Video Tutorial:

Gwendolyn Table Runner, Written Pattern:

Squares – Make 80:

Chain 5. Slip stitch join to form a ring. Chain 2 (counts as a DC), 2 DC into the ring, (chain 3, 3 DC into the ring) 3x, chain 2. Join to the 1st DC.

R2: Slip Stitch over to the next chain space. Chain 2 (counts as a DC), 2 DC into the same space, chain 3, 3 DC into the same space, chain 1, [(3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) into the next chain space, chain 1] 3x. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2.

Fasten off. I recommend weaving in ends at this point.

Continuous Join – Work as instructed even though photos show only 3 squares. This is the photo tutorial from my Gwendolyn Doily:

I like to stack my square just as they’ll be joined, so in this case, it would be 16 stacks of 5 squares each because this table runner will be assembled into 16 rows of 5 squares (or you can reverse it, and do 5 rows of 16 squares). When you lay out and join your squares, make sure all the squares are facing the same direction – you can distinguish the direction by the seam from joining – I have mine at the top.

Join yarn with a SC to the bottom right corner chain space, then…

I. SC up the next 7 stitches, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next chain space, SC across the next 7 stitches, [(SC, chain 1, SC) into the next chain space, SC down the next 8 stitches; From the RS: insert hook into the bottom right corner chain space of the next square, and complete the SC, PLT, SC & PLT into the next 8 stitches, turn to the WS, SC into the previous squares chain space, turn to the RS, SC into the current squares same chain space and the next 7 stitches] 4x, SC into the next chain space…

II. From the right side: [insert hook into the bottom left corner chain space of the next square, and complete the SC, PLT, (SC & PLT into the next 8 stitches), turn to the WS, SC into the center join of previous rows squares, turn to the RS] 4x, insert hook into the bottom left corner chain space of the next square, and complete the SC, PLT, SC & PLT into the next 8 stitches, turn to the WS, SC into the chain space of the previous row’s square, turn to the RS.

Repeat I.

Repeat II + I, 12 more times ending at the far left chain space of the final square.

III. Chain 1, SC into the same chain space, now working down the side, SC into the next 8 stitches, (SC into the center join, SC into the next chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches) 13x, SC into the center join, SC into the next chain space, SC into the next 7 stitches, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, (SC into the center join, SC into the next chain space and next 8 stitches) 4x, chain 1. Join to the first SC.

Border R2 – 3: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch and each stitch up to the next corner, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner chain space, SC into the next stitch and each stitch over to the next corner, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner chain space, SC into the next stitch and each stitch down to the next corner, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner chain space, SC into the next stitch and each stitch over to the beginning. SC into the same stitch as the first. Join to the first SC. Weave in remaining ends.

R4: Chain 1. Rev SC into the next stitch and each stitch all the way around working just one stitch per corner. Fasten off, and then join similar to that of invisible join just mimicking the look of the other stitches.

Weave in ends.

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