How to crochet an easy double crochet beanie that features fun striping and some hand stitching to mimic a fun past time, Football. 7 sizes included so everyone in the family can match!
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Short on time? Pin it for later when you have more time.
I originally designed this beanie as part of the 2018 Christmas in July Crochet Along, hosted by Marie of Underground Crafter and Pia of Stitches n Scraps, where my challenge was to design something that could be worked up quickly for gift giving, and something a guy would like to receive – the first part not bad, but the second part not such an easy task!
As the event got closer, I was getting nervous that I wouldn’t have anything ready when I remembered this hat. I made this hat two Super Bowls ago, and wore it to my nieces flag football games, but never published the pattern. Football + Men = Success! Hehe. AND! This pattern is sized from newborn to adult large, so you can make the whole family matching hats 🙂
Easy Double Crochet Patterns:
Dylan Claire is one of my easy, beginner friendly series that features simple double crochet stitches, though I don’t recommend starting with a project that is worked in the round as a beginner – try it after you are comfortable working back and forth in rows using the double crochet stitch pattern.
Super Chunky Dylan Claire Beanie
Find accessory crochet patterns over on my Cre8tion Crochet blog, and home decor and accessory crochet patterns here on EyeLoveKnots.
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Materials:
- 100 – 225 Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Red Heart’s With Love in the Chocolate and White colorways
- I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends & Stitching Football Laces
- Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
Recently, I’ve learned from my friend Krissy of Krissy’s Over the Mountain Crochet that as a beanie for cancer patients, the best yarn for a sensitive head is going to be a bamboo blend, like Berroco Modern Cotton or Lion Brand Coboo. Some can tolerate 100% acrylic or wool, but not all can. With this said, if you’ll be donating your beanie, I recommend looking up the requirements from the organization. Some say not to use wool yarns. Some say not to use Red Heart Super Saver (though I think this is a great yarn that really softens nicely after washing, and wears and washes so well). Some request the beanies to be washed prior to donating. Each has it’s own set of guidelines so you’ll want to check with the organization first.
As a cold weather beanie, animal fibers are better for keeping warm against the wind, and while alpaca works great, my go-to is always a 100% superwash merino wool, like WeCrochet Swish Yarn, or a wool and acrylic blend, like Lion Brand Wool Ease and Berroco Vintage. All of these that I’ve mentioned hold up well to wear and tear and machine washing and drying.
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
Time Spent:
The adult small size took me about two and a half hours to complete.
Measurements:
The Newborn Size has a crown of 4 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 13 1/2″ to fit a head size of 13 – 14″, and is 5″ in length.
The 3 – 6 Month Size has a crown of 4 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 15″ to fit a head size of 15 – 16″, and is 5 1/4″ in length.
The 6 – 12 Month Size has a crown of 5 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 17 1/2″ to fit a head size of 17 – 19″, and is 5 3/4″ in length.
The Toddler Size has a crown of 5 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of 18″ to fit a head size of 18 – 20″, and is 6 1/2″ in length.
The Child Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 19 3/4″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 7″ in length.
The Teen/Adult Small Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 19 3/4″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 8 1/2″ in length.
The Adult Large Size has a crown of 6 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 21 1/4″ to fit a head size of 22 – 23″, and is either 8 1/2″ or 9 1/2″ in length.
If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around your head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 2” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. 2” is the amount of stretch for acrylic, wool, and similar.
Gauge:
Measured in Pattern.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial | Video Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
I work my crown and body differently than most to help keep my seam straight, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. The photo above shows where the first and last stitch are worked, and I have a photo tutorial of this technique in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post. You can work in your preferred increase method as long as we end up with the same stitches at the end of the round.
In the crown, the beginning chain 2 does not count as a stitch, but in the body, the chain 2 does count.
Slip stitch join to the first stitch of each round, not the beginning chain.
Double Crochet Football Beanie Pattern:
NEWBORN:
In Brown, chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 1. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 8 DCs, and DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the first 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join with White. (36 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and each DC around. Join with Brown. (36 DC)
R6: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and each DC around. Join. (36 DC)
R7: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and each DC around. Join. (36 DC)
R8 – 9: Repeat Rounds 6 and 7. At the end of Round 9, join with White.
R10: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and each DC around. Join with Brown.
R11: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch around. Join, and Fasten Off. (36 SC)
3 – 6 MONTH:
In Brown, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 10 DCs, DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join with White. (44 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 3/4″.
R5: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (44 DC)
R6: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and each DC around. Join. (44 DC)
R7: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and each DC around. Join. (44 DC)
R8 – 9: Repeat Rounds 6 and 7. At the end of Round 9, join with White.
R10: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and each DC around. Join with Brown.
R11: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch around. Join, and Fasten Off. (44 SC)
6 – 12 MONTHS:
In Brown, chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 9 DC, DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 9x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, DC into the last stitch. Join with White. (50 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 1/2″.
R6: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (50 DC)
R7: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join. (50 DC)
R8: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (50 DC)
R9 – 10: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8. At the end of Round 8, join with White.
R11: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (50 DC)
R12: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join, and Fasten Off. (50 SC)
TODDLER, 1 – 3 YEARS:
In Brown, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 10 DC, DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
R5: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (55 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 3/4″.
R6: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with White. (55 DC)
R7: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (55 DC)
R8: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (55 DC)
R9 – 11: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8, ending after a Round 7 repeat. At the end of Round 11, join with White.
R12: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (55 DC)
R13: Chain 1. SC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (55 SC)
R14: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st SC, and into each SC around. Join, and Fasten Off. (55 SC)
CHILD, 4 – 12 YEARS:
In Brown, chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 8 DC, DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (36 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (45 DC)
R6: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 5 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join with White. (54 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R7: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (54 DC)
R8: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R9: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R10 – 12: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9, ending after a Round 8. At the end of Round 12, join with White.
R13: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R14: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join with Brown. (54 SC)
R15: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join, and Fasten Off. (54 SC)
TEEN/ADULT SMALL:
In Brown, chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 8 DC, DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (36 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (45 DC)
R6: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 5 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 8x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (54 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R7: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with White. (54 DC)
R8: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (54 DC)
R9: In Brown, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R10 – 15: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9. At the end of Round 15, join with White.
R16: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R17: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join with Brown. (54 SC)
R18: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join, and Fasten Off. (54 SC)
ADULT LARGE:
In Brown, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st stitch, 2 DC into each of the next 10 DC, DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 2 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next stitch) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 3 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 3/4″.
R5: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (55 DC)
R6: Chain 2. DC into the 1st 5 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 10x, DC into the last stitch. Join. (66 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 3/4″.
R7: Chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join. (66 DC)
R8: Chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join with White. (66 DC)
R9: In White, chain 2. DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join with Brown. (66 DC)
R10 – 17: In Brown, repeat Rounds 8 and 9. At the end of Round 17, join with White.
R18: In White, chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join. (66 DC)
R19: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join with Brown. (66 SC)
R20: In Brown, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and into each stitch around. Join, and Fasten Off. (66 SC)
Football Lacings:
Cut a long piece of white yarn, and thread tapestry needle. The lacings will be in the brown space between white rounds.
Weave tail in on the wrong side a few times – I recommend 3, and then insert needle from wrong side just under top white round, and bring down and back into the hat from the right side just above bottom white round. Repeat two more times to make this line thicker.
Now time to work the horizontal stripes. Bring needle up from the wrong side, about two stitches over from where you first took the needle out at the top, and work over to the left, bringing the needle down about two stitches from that center line. Repeat two more times to thicken.
Evenly work in this manner down the center line, making sure to match up the start and finish of the center line with your horizontal stripes, as I did with my first stripe, but missed with my second stripe (why you can see the gap). What I should have done was work the second to last horizontal stripe a little lower, and omit the last stripe. Also make sure not to pull too tight, as you don’t want the part of the hat to bunch. Weave the final end in.
This is what the inside of my hat looks like… A little messy, but not noticeable from the right side, and not in the way. You could always line your hat if you don’t like it, or stitch up the lacings part, and sew on, like an applique.
And there you have a football beanie ready to wear, or gift to a lucky guy in your life!
Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.
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That’s so clever, it’s a simple hat but the details make it look so much fun. Brilliant!
Yes! Simple is always a plus. I would like to try another version of this in tapestry too.
First, this football beanie look adorable on you Alexandra! i say you wear it for some of the games! What a clever idea for a guy’s gift! You did a great job!
thanks for linking!
jess xx
http://www.elegantlydressedandstylish.com
Thank you, thank you! I would like to work another up in a lighter cotton yarn so it’s more tolerable in our Florida heat. I have a cousin started high school this year, already started his football practices, and I am looking forward to wearing it some of his games.
This is a such a unique idea! Very cute! I love at how you came up with it as well as having it available from NB to adults!
Maureen | http://www.littlemisscasual.com
Thanks so much, Maureen!
Cute! My son would love one of these.
Thank you for sharing at The Really Crafty link Party. Pinned.
Love your hat! In pic looks like 2 white rows together but when i make it following pattern there is brown row in between white row on all the pattern sizes. Just wondering why. Thanks!
In my original hat, which is what the pictures are from, I worked a row of double crochet followed by single crochet both in white. In this design, I did not have time to figure out measurements by working this way, but I have done several hats for clients as written in this pattern.
Love this! This will be one of my features this week on the Snickerdoodle Create Bake Make Party! Stop by to check it out! Roseann from This Autoimmune Life
Thanks so much, Roseann! Just popped by the party 🙂
Such a cute football hat! Thanks for sharing the pattern! I’m pinning this!
Thanks so much, Tonna!
What a great idea! Christmas gifts for all the footballers here! Thank you for the idea and pattern.
Yes, excellent gift idea. Enjoy!
My sis says it’s cute, as I shared pattern w/ her.
Just finished mine. Hardest part was even laced. Go Rams!
So kind of you to share! Thank you! I will admit, I had quite a tough time myself with getting that lacing even – you can tell that mine isn’t in the one in the photo. I thought about cutting some out of felt, and hot gluing on to see how it would turn out. Maybe in the fall… Glad you enjoyed the pattern!