How to Crochet a Table Runner Using Circle Motifs

This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet a table runner using circle motifs.

I designed this table runner as a custom order – built of circles in gray and cream. The challenge was figuring out how to join the circles together.

After I shipped the order off to it’s new home, I reached out to Happily Hooked Magazine to see if they were interested in the design, which they were. I worked up another sample to send to them for photography, and when it came back, it sat for a while.

This is the only runner I owned until Lily’s Floral Table Runner, and I didn’t think I’d really ever really needed one, but it worked out perfectly for my Spring Entryway Table!

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Materials:

• 1,600 Yards of Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn – I used 4 skeins each of Lily Sugar n Cream in Ecru and Overcast
• M13/9mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
• Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

Yarn Alternatives for Cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Rico Creative Cotton Aran

Cotton is a great durable, sturdy, absorbent fiber, but really any yarn will work.

Jewelry pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.

Measurements:

15.13” Wide by 45” Long

Gauge – Not Essential:

• 16 HDC by 10 Rows = 4″ OR
• In Pattern: Each circle measures 6 ¼” in diameter

Abbreviations (US Terms):

• HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
• DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain does not count as a stitch.

Join to the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain.

Gauge is not essential as long as all of the circles measure the same, but if you’re working to meet gauge, and your circle measures 6.5” in diameter, drop one half double crochet that is worked into the ring.

I work my increases different than most, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. Basic photo above, but I also have a tutorial if you’re interested->How to Keep a Straight Seam.

Invisible join is recommended to use at the end of Row 3. I have a photo tutorial -> How to Make an Invisible Join.

To join the edges of the circles, I used the mattress stitch in the back loop only for a closer to seamless join – I say closer because it just won’t look seamless, even though this join normally is – it’s the way it pulls on the cotton. You could also use a whipstitch in a coordinating color, if you want it to stick out as part of the design.

Pattern – Make 13 in Overcast, and 9 in Ecru holding two strands of yarn together at once:

Chain 8. Slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring. Chain 1. Work 16 HDC into the ring. Join. (16 HDC)

R2: Chain 1. HDC into the 1st HDC, 2 HDC into each of the next 15 DC, HDC into the same HDC as the 1st. Join. (32 HDC)

R3: Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch). DC into the 1st HDC and into the next HDC, (2 DC into the next HDC, DC into the next HDC) 15x, DC back into the 1st stitch. Join. (48 DC)

Weave in Ends – doing so one strand at a time will avoid extra bulk.

Assembly:

Thread tapestry needle with one strand of cotton yarn. Lay out the circles in order…

…and use the mattress stitch to sew the circle edges together where they touch (working only in the back loops only). Weave in any remaining ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Dara Table Runner, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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