Lily’s Floral Table Runner – Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet a floral table runner.

Do you recognize the flower motif? A few weeks ago I shared it as a coaster pattern – Easy Floral Coasters. This floral motif has been one of absolute favorite little things! I have also used to create my Sunflower Shawl (Free Crochet Pattern), as well as my more recent Floral Hoop Earrings (Free Crochet Pattern).

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Materials:

• 560 Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Lily Sugar n Cream in (MC) Yellow for the flower centers (235 yards), in (CB) Rose Pink, Mod Blue, White & Red for the petals (205 yards), and in (CC) Hot Green for the Leaves (120 Yards)
• H8/5mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
• Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

Yarn Alternatives to Lily Sugar n Cream: Bernat’s Handicrafter, Red Heart’s Smoothie, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Rico Creative Cotton Aran

Each flower requires almost 12 yards of yarn, and each of the leaves requires 4 yards of yarn.

I used cotton yarn because it’s more absorbent and durable, but really any yarn will work.

Jewelry pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.

Time Spent:

• Flowers: Just over 15 minutes each.
• Leaves: 5 minutes each.
• Entire Runner: Just over 14 hours.

Measurements:

• Flower: Taken from the position of one petal at the top center, 3.75″ wide by 4.25″ from tip of top petal to tip of bottom petal
• Runner: 14″ Wide by 46.25″ in Length

Gauge – Not Essential:

16 HDC by 10 Rows = 4″

Abbreviations:

• SC – Single Crochet
• DC – Double Crochet

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain does not count as a stitch, except for in the leaves.

Join to the first stitch of the round, not the beginning chain. In the petals, joining is done to the first double crochet to lessen the height gap.

How I worked my yarn color change: after joining, turn to the new working side. Pull the new color through, then pull the original color tight (it will disappear).

You can also work in the more traditional ways of pulling new color through in the last yarn over of the previous stitch (I do have a basic photo tutorial if needed – How to Change Yarn Colors in Crochet) or fastening off the center color, and rejoining the new color in any stitch, but I find the way I did it much easier, and it hides the color change.

I work my increases a little different than most, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. You can see a photo tutorial of this in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post.

Though there are only three rounds, and a straight seam isn’t really an issue, this is my preferred method – you can work in your preferred increase method for the center as long as you end up with 24 stitches.

I recommend weaving the ends in as you go – I weaved mine in at the end of each row. I know myself way too well to know that if I had left all those ends for the end, I may not have finished this project.

Outline:

The flowers are worked in rows of 4 across from left to right – the 1st flower is on the far left, and the 4th flower is on the far right.

I worked the first two rows first, then went back and worked the leaves in between these rows, then I went on to add the next row of flowers, and then the leaves in between the previous two. Alternatively, you can do all the flowers first, and then go in, and add the leaves, or you can omit the leaves all together, but the runner will have less stability as it will have those gaps.

For my color pattern, I worked the first row of flowers as Blue, Pink, Red and White. For all the remaining rows, I took the first color, and moved it to the end, so my second row was Pink, Red, White and Blue. This creates diagonal lines of color. It would look great in all random colors, or all one color.

There will be a total of 11 rows of flowers, and 10 rows of leaves in between.

1st Flower:

In Yellow, chain 5. Slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring. Chain 1. Work 12 DC into the ring. Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. DC into the 1st DC, 2 DC into each of the next 11 DC, DC into the same DC as the 1st. Join with CB, and fasten off Yellow. (24 DC)

R3: In CB, chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, [SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch] 5x. Join. (6 Petals, 6 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

2nd – 4th Flowers:

R1 – 2: Same as 1st Flower.

R3: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC into the next stitch, chain 1, from behind: SC into the corresponding chain space of the previous flower, in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch) 2x, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch. Join, and fasten off.

Next Row, 1st Flower:

R1 – 2: Same as 1st Flower.

R3: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC into the next stitch, chain 1, from behind: SC into the bottom center chain space of the previous row’s flower, in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch, [skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch] 4x. Join, and fasten off.

Next Row, 2nd – 4th Flowers:

R1 – 2: Same as 1st Flower.

R3: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, 3 DC into the next stitch, chain 1, from behind: SC into the bottom center chain space of the previous row’s flower, in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch, (skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, 3 DC into the next stitch, chain 1, from behind: SC into the corresponding chain space of the previous flower, in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch) 2x, (skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch. Join, and fasten off.

Photo Tutorial Showing 4th Flower:

Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, 3 DC into the next stitch…

chain 1, from behind…

… insert hook into the bottom center chain space of the previous row’s flower…

… and complete SC.

… in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch…

… (skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, 3 DC into the next stitch, chain 1…

…from behind: SC into the corresponding chain space of the previous flower, in current flower: 3 DC into the same stitch) 2x, (skip the next stitch, SC into the next stitch, skip the next stitch, (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) into the next stitch, skip the next stitch. Join, and fasten off.

Leaves – Worked into the inside center 4 SC in between rows:

In Green, chain 5. Slip stitch join to the first chain to form a ring. Chain 2, 2 DC into the ring, (chain 1, from behind: SC into a SC that is in between petals, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring) 3x, chain 1, from behind: SC into a SC that is in between petals. Join to the 1st DC, and fasten off.

Photo Tutorial of Leaves:

Chain 5. Slip stitch join to the first chain to form a ring. Chain 2, 2 DC into the ring…

… chain 1, from behind: insert hook into a SC that is in between petals…

… and complete the SC.

… chain 1, 3 DC into the ring – making sure to always work over the beginning tail…

… chain 1, from behind: SC into the next SC that is in between petals…

… chain 1, 3 DC into the ring…

… chain 1, from behind: SC into a SC that is in between petals, chain 1, 3 DC into the ring, chain 1, from behind: SC into a SC that is in between petals. Join to the 1st DC, and fasten off.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Lily’s Floral Table Runner, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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