This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet the Selene Beanie, an easy crochet pattern worked in an easy shell stitch pattern and your favorite worsted weight yarn, and available in 7 sizes.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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This beanie comes with a story that began in February of 2014.
Here is the original hat that I made in Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Choice in the Pink Poodle colorway.

At the time, I only had a child size published because I made it for my 5 year old niece as a Valentine’s Day gift.

I’ve been working to update some of my older designs, like my Super Chunky Brett Haylee Scarf.
This beanie was the next one in line – it was my second published pattern on this blog back in 2014! In this update, I’ve renamed the pattern, added 6 other sizes ranging from Newborn through Adult Large, and added a video tutorial.

This beanie is worked in an easy shell stitch pattern similar to that of the classic granny stitch pattern. It’s worked in simple double crochet clusters, and the lacy pattern comes from skipping a few stitches.

I contemplated working the crown in a shell stitch pattern, and started working it out, but there are a few things I like about working the crown in solid stitches first, like all double crochet’s here. It still provides great warmth, which I especially like if you’re making beanies to donate. It’s also really easy to work up, meet gauge and adjust the stitch count if needed.

You may also like my Grace Tinley Beanie, which is worked in the granny stitch pattern, and also available in 7 sizes.
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Materials:
- 50 (60, 75, 85, 100, 125, 155) Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used WeCrochet Swish in Clementine
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
My original beanie was worked in Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Choice, and I’ve worked the new version in WeCrochet Swish (100% superwash merino wool) from out of my stash.
I’ve learned from my friend Krissy of Krissy’s Over the Mountain Crochet that as a beanie for cancer patients, the best yarn for a sensitive head is going to be a bamboo blend, like Berroco Modern Cotton or Lion Brand Coboo, which also pairs well with the lacy stitch pattern of this beanie. Some can tolerate 100% acrylic or wool, but not all can. With this said, if you’ll be donating your beanie, I recommend looking up the requirements from the organization. Some say not to use wool yarns. Some say not to use Red Heart Super Saver (though I think this is a great yarn that really softens nicely after washing, and wears and washes so well). Some request the beanies to be washed prior to donating. Each has it’s own set of guidelines so you’ll want to check with the organization first.
As a cold weather beanie, animal fibers are better for keeping warm against the wind, and while alpaca works great, my go-to is always a 100% superwash merino wool, like WeCrochet Swish Yarn, or a wool and acrylic blend, like Lion Brand Wool Ease and Berroco Vintage. All of these that I’ve mentioned hold up well to wear and tear and machine washing and drying.
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
Time Spent:
Just under 30 minutes to 3 hours, depending on size.

Measurements:
The Newborn Size has a crown of 4″ in diameter, a circumference of about 12 1/2″ to fit a head size of 13″-14″, and is 5″ in length.
The 3-6 Month Size has a crown of 4 5/8″ – 4 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of about 14 1/2″ – 15″ to fit a head size of 14″-16″, and is 5 1/4″ in length.
The 6-12 Month Size has a crown of 5 3/8″ – 5 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of about 17″ – 17 1/4″ to fit a head size of 17″-19″, and is 5 3/4″ in length.
The Toddler Size has a crown of 5 3/8″ – 5 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of about 17″ – 17 1/4″ to fit a head size of 18″ – 20″, and is 6 1/2″ in length.
The Child Size Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ – 6 3/8″ in diameter, a circumference of about 19 5/8″ – 20″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 7″ in length.
The Teen/Adult Small Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ – 6 3/8″ in diameter, a circumference of about 19 5/8″ – 20″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 8 1/2″ in length.
The Adult Large Size has a crown of 6 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of about 20 3/8″ to fit a head size of 22″ – 23″, and is either 8 1/2″ or 9 1/2″ in length.
*If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around your head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 2” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. 2” is the amount of stretch for acrylic, wool, and similar.
Gauge:
Measured in Pattern.
Gauge it very important for beanies. If you do not meet gauge, and continue making your beanie, the finished size will either be too small or too big so make sure to stop and check it. If you’re measuring smaller than the given measurements, go up a crochet hook size, and if you’re measuring larger, go down a crochet hook size. Rework the sample, take gauge again, and see where you are.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:

I work my crown and body differently than most to help keep my seam straight, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. The photo above shows where the first and last stitch are worked, and I have a photo tutorial of this technique in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post. You can work in your preferred increase method as long as we end up with the same stitches at the end of the round.
In the crown, the beginning chain 2 does not count as a stitch, but in the body, the chain 2 does count.
In the crown, join to the first stitch. In the body, join to the beginning chain.
The original beanie has 3 rounds of single crochet around the end. If you like this look, you can achieve it by replacing the last shell stitch round with two rounds of single crochet.
I’m ending each size with single crochet because I love the polished, finished look it gives. This round adds 1/4″ to the total length. If you don’t want a round of single crochet, you can omit it for less length, or work another round of the shell stitch in it’s place for a little bit more length.
If you are a tight crocheter, I recommend working the shell stitch pattern and single crochet round in an I9/5.5mm crochet hook to help keep it looser so there is no restriction in the final beanie.
Shell Stitch Beanie Hat Video Tutorial:
Shell Stitch Beanie Hat Written Pattern, Newborn Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4″.
R5: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (45 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (15 shell clusters)
R7 – 10: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (15 shell clusters)
R11: Chain 1, SC in the 1st DC, and in each DC around. Join. (45 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Selene Beanie Written Pattern, 3-6 Month Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 5/8″.
R6: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (51 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (17 shell clusters)
R8 – 11: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (17 shell clusters)
R12: Chain 1, SC in the 1st DC, and in each DC around. Join. (51 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Selene Beanie Written Pattern, 6-12 Month Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (60 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 1/2″.
R7: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (60 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (20 shell clusters)
R9 – 12: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (20 shell clusters)
R13: Chain 1, SC in the 1st DC, and in each DC around. Join. (60 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Selene Beanie Written Pattern, Toddler Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (60 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 1/2″.
R7: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (60 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (20 shell clusters)
R9 – 13: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (20 shell clusters)
R14 – 15: Chain 1, SC in the 1st stitch, and in each stitch around. Join. (60 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Selene Beanie Written Pattern, Child Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 5/8″.
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (60 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first 6 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 5 stitches) 9x. Join. (69 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R8: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (69 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (23 shell clusters)
R10 – 14: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (23 shell clusters)
R15 – 16: Chain 1, SC in the 1st stitch, and in each stitch around. Join. (69 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Selene Beanie Written Pattern, Adult Small Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 5/8″.
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (60 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first 6 stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 5 stitches) 9x. Join. (69 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R8: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 2nd DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (69 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (23 shell clusters)
R10 – 17: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (23 shell clusters)
R18 – 19: Chain 1, SC in the 1st stitch, and in each stitch around. Join. (69 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Selene Beanie Written Pattern, Adult Large Size:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (55 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (66 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first six stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 5 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (77 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/2″.
R8: Chain 2 (counts as a DC). Work 1 DC into the 1st DC, and into each DC around. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2. (78 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC, skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (26 shell clusters)
The Adult Large size has the biggest range for heights, and that is that it can be either 8 1/2″ tall (like the Adult Small version) or 9 1/2″ tall, and this varies depending on the recipient.
R10 – 17 (19): Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, skip 2 DC, (3 DCs into the next DC [which is the center DC of the next cluster], skip 2 DC) around, 1 DC into the first stitch to complete the first shell. Join. (26 shell clusters)
R18 (20): Chain 1, SC in the 1st stitch, and in each stitch around. Join. (78 SC)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.

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I did my magic ring with 10 dc in the ring, I’m working the crown, and it doesn’t seem the number of stitches I should have at the end of the round are adding up. Round 2 I ended up with 18 stitches instead of 20. Should there be twelve dc in the magic ring instead of 10?
Working the magic ring is just an alternative to working a chain and joining to form a ring. It doesn’t have an effect on the stitch count because at the end of forming a magic ring, you still need to start with a beginning chain, and then work the number of stitches stated in the pattern to complete the first round.
If you are ending up with less than double the amount of stitches for Round 2 then you are missing a stitch when working around in Round 2 – it may be the very first one that the beginning chain is coming out of, or it could be the very last one if the increases are not done all the way to the end.
There is also a video tutorial in the post if you’d like to check it out. It doesn’t start with a magic ring, but after the beginning chain is joined it will equal where you will be after you form your magic ring, and you can follow along beginning with the chain 2.