This is a free crochet pattern showing how to crochet the Dylan Claire Beanie, a basic beanie worked in simple double crochet stitches that is perfect for late fall, winter or early spring, and with all sizes included here, you can make one for every member of the family! Embellish with a pom pom on the top, or leave as is. You can even sew on appliques or buttons for a fun twist.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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This easy double crochet beanie pattern has been my go-to for more than 10 years! Worked in simple double crochet stitches, your favorited worsted weight yarn and in 7 sizes from Newborn through Adult, you can easily make matching beanies for everyone in the family!
One thing I love about working with the I9/5.5mm crochet hook is that each round increases by 1″ in size, so it’s easy to determine ahead of time if the crown size works out, as gauge is important when making beanies to ensure they will fit correctly.
Easy Double Crochet Patterns:
Dylan Claire is one of my easy, beginner friendly series that features simple double crochet stitches, though I don’t recommend starting with a project that is worked in the round as a beginner – try it after you are comfortable working back and forth in rows using the double crochet stitch pattern.



Super Chunky Dylan Claire Beanie
Find accessory crochet patterns over on my Cre8tion Crochet blog, and home decor and accessory crochet patterns here on EyeLoveKnots.
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Materials:
- 75 – 195 Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Taupe
- I9/5.5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
With one 7 oz (355 yards) skein of I Love This Yarn, I was able to work up a Toddler, Child, Adult Small and Large size with one pom pom on the top, and still had a small amount left.
Recently, I’ve learned from my friend Krissy of Krissy’s Over the Mountain Crochet that as a beanie for cancer patients, the best yarn for a sensitive head is going to be a bamboo blend, like Berroco Modern Cotton or Lion Brand Coboo. Some can tolerate 100% acrylic or wool, but not all can. With this said, if you’ll be donating your beanie, I recommend looking up the requirements from the organization. Some say not to use wool yarns. Some say not to use Red Heart Super Saver (though I think this is a great yarn that really softens nicely after washing, and wears and washes so well). Some request the beanies to be washed prior to donating. Each has it’s own set of guidelines so you’ll want to check with the organization first.
As a cold weather beanie, animal fibers are better for keeping warm against the wind, and while alpaca works great, my go-to is always a 100% superwash merino wool, like WeCrochet Swish Yarn, or a wool and acrylic blend, like Lion Brand Wool Ease and Berroco Vintage. All of these that I’ve mentioned hold up well to wear and tear and machine washing and drying.
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
Time Spent:
Times range from 30 minutes to two hours and a half hours, depending on the size.
The adult small size works up for me in about two hours, 15 minutes.
Sizes/Measurements:
The Newborn Size has a crown of 4 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 13 1/2″ to fit a head size of 13″ – 14″, and is 5″ in length.
The 3-6 Month Size has a crown of 4 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 15″ to fit a head size of 15″ – 16″, and is 5 1/4″ in length.
The 6-12 Month Size has a crown of 5 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 17 1/2″ to fit a head size of 17″ – 19″, and is 5 3/4″ in length.
The Toddler Size has a crown of 5 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of 18″ to fit a head size of 18 – 20″, and is 6 1/2″ in length.
The Child Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 19 3/4″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 7″ in length.
The Teen/Adult Small Size has a crown of 6 1/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 19 3/4″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 8 1/2″ in length.
The Adult Large Size has a crown of 6 3/4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 21 1/4″ to fit a head size of 22 – 23″, and is either 8 1/2″ or 9 1/2″ in length.
If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around your head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 2” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. 2” is the amount of stretch for acrylic, wool, and similar.
Gauge:
Measured in Pattern.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial | Video Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:

I work my crown and body differently than most to help keep my seam straight, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. The photo above shows where the first and last stitch are worked, and I have a photo tutorial of this technique in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post. You can work in your preferred increase method as long as we end up with the same stitches at the end of the round.
In the crown, the beginning chain 2 does not count as a stitch, but in the body, the chain 2 does count.
Slip stitch join to the first stitch of each round, not the beginning chain.
To make a Pom Pom: Wrap yarn around three fingers 100 times. Carefully remove from fingers. Find the vertical center, and tie a strand of yarn that is approximately 12” tightly around – I like to do a square knot 3x. Without cutting this additional strand, evenly trim pom pom. Use the added strand to sew them onto the top center of the hat.
Easy Double Crochet Beanie Pattern:
Newborn:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 1. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 8 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (36 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (36 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (36 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (36 DC)
R8 – 10: Repeat Rounds 6 and 7, ending with a Round 6.
R11: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (36 SC)
3 – 6 Months:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 3/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (44 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (44 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (44 DC)
R8 – 10: Repeat Rounds 6 and 7.
R11: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (44 SC)
6 – 12 Months:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 9 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (20 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (30 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (40 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 9x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (50 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 1/2″.
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (50 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (50 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (50 DC)
R9 – 11: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8, ending with a Round 7.
R12: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (50 SC)
Toddler, 1 – 3 Years:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (55 DC)
Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 3/4″.
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (55 DC)
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (55 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (55 DC)
R9 – 12: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8.
R13 – 14: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (55 SC)
Child, 4 – 12 Years:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 8 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (36 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (45 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (54 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R10 – 13: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9.
R14 – 15: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (54 SC)

Teen/Adult Small:
Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 8 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (18 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (27 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (36 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (45 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (54 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 1/4″.
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (54 DC)
R10 – 16: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9, ending with a Round 8.
R17 – 18: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (54 SC)
Adult Large:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join. 11 DC)
R2: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (22 DC)
R3: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (33 DC)
R4: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first three stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 2 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (44 DC)
Checkpoint #1: Stop here, and measure the diameter to check gauge. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 3/4″.
R5: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first four stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (55 DC)
R6: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first five stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into each of the next 4 stitches) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join. (66 DC)
Checkpoint #2: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 3/4″.
R7: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (66 DC)
R8: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (66 DC)
R9: Chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join. (66 DC)
R10 – 18: Repeat Rounds 8 and 9, ending with a Round 8.
R19 – 20: Chain 1. 1 SC into the first stitch, & each stitch around. Join. (66 SC)

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I wanted to let you know, your 3-6 month pattern has a typo with the stitch count starting at round 5!! It should say 55 and not 44. I thought I was doing something wrong, but i counted again! 🙂
Thanks so much for letting me know! Just fixed. Sorry to have confused you.