Learn how to crochet an easy half double crochet washcloth in 7 sizes with this free crochet pattern and video tutorial. This washcloth is a great project to work in a solid color, or bust out your yarn scraps and work in fun stripes or a color block pattern.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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It’s time for the first worsted weight washcloth from the Mystery Washcloth Crochet a Long, the Haylee Washcloth, which is an easy, beginner crochet washcloth worked in simple half double crochet stitches and available in 7 sizes so you can make in the perfect size for you and what you will use it for!
Handmade washcloths are great for washing dishes with, and also feel fantastic against the skin in the shower.
If you’re looking for a gift, work up a set of three, and wrap with a bow, or place in a spa or kitchen themed gift basket with some coasters, which are perfect for cups, as mini washcloths, large facial scrubbies and so much more!
This pattern has been around since 2015 when I originally released it as Chad’s Emerald Washcloth in 2 Sizes working them up in Bernat Handicrafter. I updated it once in 2017 where I changed the title, a few other small changes and reworked the pattern in Crafters Secret Cotton to teach a class, but now in 2024, I am fully updating it in a new yarn, adding multiple sizes to have my new range of sizes from 4″ up to 10″, adding a video tutorial, and the free PDF for blog subscribers.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
Originally, I made these for a Two Year Anniversary gift to go with some new paint brushes and brush cleaner as the “cotton” gift that could be used to dry off the brushes, wipe off the brushes or just lay the brushes on. You can read more about the story in my Two Year Anniversary Together – Gift Idea post.
I am running an Earwarmer Crochet a Long at the same time as this Washcloth Crochet a Long, and the stitches are the same on both sides. If you are interested, make sure to check out my Haylee Earwarmer.
Easy Half Double Crochet Patterns:
Haylee is an easy crochet line that features simple half double crochet stitches. I love the texture of half double crochet when the fabric is turned at the end of each row! This is a beginner friendly series, and this washcloth is great project to pair with watching your favorite TV show or movie because it’s just one stitch for the entire project, and you don’t have to even count rows if you don’t want you – you can use a soft tape measure to measure as you go, and stop at the length desired.
You’ll love these matching pieces for your home!
Sport Weight Haylee Washcloths
Find more Haylee accessory and home decor crochet patterns here on EyeLoveKnots, and Haylee accessory and wearables crochet patterns on Cre8tion Crochet.
If you like making washcloths as much as I do, you’ll love these:
How do you make an easy half double crochet washcloth?
Half double crochet washcloths are really easy, not just because of the stitch pattern, but also because there is no stitch multiple for working in half double crochet so if you want to adjust the width, simply take stitches away or add them in any number. The front and back also look the same because we turn at the end of each row so you can finish on either side, and then begin your border.
Crochet a chain, then half double crochet into the 3rd chain from the hook. The total number of stitches will be 1 less than the number of chains that you have. For the remaining rows, chain 1, turn and then half double crochet into each stitch across working as many rows as you want. You do not have to add a border, but it does give it a more finished appearance. I went with a single crochet border working a single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in each corner.
Where Do You Use a Washcloth?
Washcloths, sometimes called a washrag, are just a miniature bath towel, and designed to be absorbent, soft and easy to use being hand held. Washcloths can be used as a small hand towel to dry off after washing hands, as well as in the shower with soap to clean and exfoliate. Crocheted cotton washcloths feel amazing against the skin, and are better for you than loofahs, as loofahs can harbor bacteria more.
How Often Should I Clean and Change a Washcloth?
For hand drying, a washcloth should be washed about once a week.
For use in the shower, I’ve heard a washcloth should be changed out a couple times a week for washing with good rinsing between uses to get rid of as many dead skin cells and bacteria as possible, but a washcloth should really be used once, and than washed as it harbors bacteria, and possible mold growth is it doesn’t dry out properly, and can hold onto debris.
How Do I Dry a Crocheted Washcloth?
After using, rinse the washcloth to remove as much debris and bacteria as possible, roll up and press excess water out (do not wring out a crocheted washcloth), and lay flat to dry. It’s not recommended to hang crocheted washcloths as they can stretch, especially if wet because they’re heavier.
What is the difference between a Crocheted Washcloth and Dishcloth?
A crocheted washcloth and a dishcloth are practically one in the same with the biggest difference being how you use it.
What size should a crocheted washcloth or dishcloth be?
The most common washcloth size I come across is 8″ by 8″, but I know everybody has their size preferences so I aim to have square sizes from 5″ to 10″.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
What is the Best Yarn to Use for a Crocheted Washcloth?
There are many fibers that make nice crocheted washcloths, though cotton yarns are used the most and are very durable for repeated use and washing. Worsted weight is the most common weight of cotton yarn used for crocheted washcloths, but there are also several nice lightweight yarns as well.
In the past, my preferred yarn for washcloths has been WeCrochet Dishie Yarn because it’s colorfast as compared to Lily Sugar n Cream, Bernat Handicrafter and Crafters Secret Cotton where with one wash, the colors fade a lot, and some colors, like greens and blues, bleed if laid down on a surface while wet.
With these half double crochet washcloths, I’ve been testing a new to me yarn called Queensland Coastal Cotton, which is available in both solid colors and variegated colors and offered in my Yarn Crafts and Coffee Shop both online and in person. It’s a 100% cotton and the colors are colorfast. The yarn works up somewhere in between the thickness of WeCrochet Dishie and Lily Sugar n Cream, and it’s a soft cotton yarn.
I’ve heard that I Love This Cotton Yarn is also colorfast, and seems to be the choice for many crocheters that do markets as it’s also softer.
Cotton blends work well for washcloths, and the synthetic fiber they’re combined with, such as acrylic or polyester, will often add a bit more durability, however, they lack the absorbency so they do need the plant based fiber.
Linen also makes for a really lovely washcloth. It gets strong when wet, and gets softer and nicer with each wash. Linen blends often combine with cotton or bamboo to add softness.
Bamboo yarns have a high absorbency – even more than cotton – however, bamboo is weaker when wet, and more prone to developing mold so if bamboo is a fiber you want to use, I definitely recommend going with a blend of linen and/or cotton.
Do I need to add a border to my washcloth?
I like adding a border to give the washcloth a more finished look, but it’s completely optional! If you decide not to add one, you may want to add 1-2 stitches to the width and 1-2 rows to the height to reach the same finished size.
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What Materials Do I Need to Crochet a Washcloth or Dishcloth?
- 20 (25, 35, 45, 60, 70, 85) Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Queensland Cotton Coastal in the Malachite [Green] and Cobalt [Darker Blue] colorways
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Optional, Jewelry Pliers
Material Notes:
Originally, I used Bernat Handicrafter Geometric Yarn in Emerald Energy and Emerald Energy Ombre – these are the greens. This yarn has been discontinued, but Lily Sugar n Cream has similar colorways: Mod Green and Mod Ombre. The Malachite colorway I picked is a great alternative for the solid green.
My samples are the 6″ and 7″ sizes. The rest of the size yardages are estimated based on my sample.
The lighter blue is my Sportweight Haylee Washcloth pattern worked in a #2 weight yarn.
Yarn Alternative: WeCrochet Dishie Yarn
If you wanted to use this as an afghan square instead, use your favorite worsted weight yarn paired with an I9/5.5mm crochet hook (because cotton yarn is more relaxed than say an acrylic or wool).
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a G6/4.25mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
I usually recommend jewelry pliers to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle, but Queensland Coastal Cotton is really smooth, and easy to weave the yarn in and out of.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Washcloth?
45 Minutes – 2 Hours (depending on the size)
I was able to work up the 7″ in just under 45 minutes.
Measurements with Border:
- 4″: 4″ Square
- 5″: 5″ by 5 1/8″
- 6″: 5 7/8″ Square
- 7″: 7″ Square
- 8″: 8 1/8″ Square
- 9″: 9″ by 8 7/8″
- 10″: 9 7/8″ by 10″
The bolded measurements are my goal size, and the following measurements are the actual ones from the project.
Gauge (Not Essential):
Measured in Pattern: 11 HDC = 3 1/8″ Wide by 11 Rows = 4 1/8″ Tall
Note: If you are measuring a swatch that is only 11 HDC wide by 11 rows tall, it will measure slightly larger. If working a swatch, I recommend working at least 15-18 stitches by 15-18 rows, but a swatch is not necessary for this project unless the finished size is essential to you.
When working the pattern, the border will add about 5/8″ to the width and height. After working about 4 – 6 rows, you can measure the width, add in the border, and you will know if the finished size will be where you want it to be. The height is even easier to see as you can measure as you go, and stop when you get close to your desired height making sure to figure in the border.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
If you wanted to alter the width of the washcloth, you can do so in any multiple desired. If you want to alter the height of the washcloth, simply add or subtract rows in any number. If you make adjustments, just make sure to continue to work evenly in the border working approximately 3 single crochets per 2 rows of half double crochet.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
I worked my washcloths in solid colors, but stripes or a colorblock pattern would be really fun too. If you would like to change yarn colors, do so in the last yarn over of the previous row. If needed, see my How to Change Yarn Colors in Crochet tutorial.
Beginning chain 1 does not count as a stitch, but skipped chains from the foundation chain do count as a half double crochet.
Beginner Crochet Half Double Crochet Washcloth Video Tutorial | Easy Half Double Crochet Dishcloth Video Tutorial:
Easy Half Double Crochet Washcloth Crochet Pattern | Easy Half Double Crochet Dishcloth Crochet Pattern:
Start with a chain, then HDC into the 3rd chain from the hook, and each chain across, ending with just 1 less HDC than chains you started with as the skipped chains from the beginning will count as a stitch.
4″: Chain 12 — 11 HDC
5″: Chain 16 — 15 HDC
6″: Chain 19 — 18 HDC
7″: Chain 23 — 22 HDC
8″: Chain 26 — 25 HDC
9″: Chain 30 — 29 HDC
10″: Chain 33 — 32 HDC
Or if it’s easier to read the traditional way:
Chain 12 (16, 19, 23, 26, 30, 33) then HDC into the 3rd chain from the hook, and each chain across. [11 (15, 18, 22, 25, 29, 32) HDC]
R2 & Remaining Rows: Chain 1, turn. HDC into the first HDC, and each HDC across, ending with the same number of stitches as you had in Row 1.
4″: Rows 2 – 10
5″: Rows 2 – 13
6″: Rows 2 – 15
7″: Rows 2 – 18
8″: Rows 2 – 21
9″: Rows 2 – 23
10″: Rows 2 – 26
Traditionally written:
R2 – 10 (13, 15, 18, 21, 23, 26): Chain 1, turn. HDC into the first HDC, and each HDC across. [11 (15, 18, 22, 25, 29, 32) HDC]
Border Notes:
The border is optional, but I like to work one to give the washcloth a more finished look.
I am working a simple single crochet round, but you can change that stitch up to any that you like, or add additional rounds to the border.
I am working my corners as (SC, chain 1, SC), which will give me a more rounded corner. Another way you can do this is 3 SCs into the same stitch. If you like a more square corner, you can work a (SC, chain 2, SC) or (SC, HDC, SC) into the same stitch.
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a G6/4.25mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
I finished my washcloths with a slip stitch join, but you could also finish your washcloth with an invisible join, which creates a clean, consistent look. Either way, this stitch will count as the final stitch for the border.
Border Without Hanging Loop:
Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st stitch and into each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 3 stitches per 2 rows of HDC) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 3 stitches per 2 rows of HDC) up the side of the washcloth to the first stitch, SC into the same stitch as the first then slip stitch join to the 1st SC (which takes the place of the last chain).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Border With Hanging Loop:
Chain 6, then slip stitch join to the last SC of the washcloth to form a ring. Chain 1, turn. Work 10 SC into the ring. Skip the first stitch that slip stitch was made in. SC into the 2nd stitch, and each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 3 stitches per 2 rows of HDC) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 3 stitches per 2 rows of HDC) up the side of the washcloth skipping the very last stitch on the side, then slip stitch join to the 1st SC worked into the hanging loop (which takes the place of the last stitch).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Hanging Loop Photo Tutorial:
Step 1: Pick your side. I like to work my border from the right side of the washcloth. With half double crochet, we turn with each row and both sides look the same so you can finish on either an odd or even row.
Step 2: Chain 6. We’re going to be slip stitching into the top of the last stitch.
Step 3: Swing your crochet hook over towards the left of the chain and insert into the top of the last stitch.
Step 4: Yarn over.
Step 5: Pull through the stitch and the loop on the crochet hook to complete a slip stitch.
Now we’ve formed a ring that we can work into to build our hanging loop.
Step 6: Chain 1.
Step 7: Turn your work over.
Step 8: Insert your crochet hook right into the center of the ring picking up the chains over top of your hook.
Step 9: Yarn over.
Step 10: Pull through (2 loops on our hook).
Step 11: Yarn over.
Step 12: Pull through both loops to complete a single crochet.
Step 13: Continue working 9 more single crochets into the center ring. If you reach a point where you have run out of space for stitches, hold onto the remaining chains in your left hand and with your right hand, pull down on the single crochets and they will slide down the chain to make space.
Step 14: Skip the first stitch of the row, which is the same stitch you’ve slip stitched to, and begin single crocheting into the next stitch.
Step 15: Evenly single crochet around the washcloth working a (SC, chain 1, SC) into each of the 3 remaining corners and working 3 stitches per 2 rows along the sides. Once near the beginning, skip the very last stitch. We’re going to be joining to the very first stitch of the hanging loop.
Step 16: Insert your crochet hook into the 1st stitch of the hanging loop underneath both loops.
Step 17: Yarn over.
Step 18: Pull through that stitch and the loop that’s on your hook to complete a slip stitch.
And now we have a handy hanging loop for our washcloth. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.
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