Lightweight Veronica Preemie Beanie – Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet an adorable lightweight preemie beanie perfect for Spring. It’s worked in a small amount of yarn making it perfect for those scraps in your stash, and in an hour and a half, you can half one in each size!

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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.

In a hurry? Pin this for later when you have more time.

Preemie beanies are one of my favorite things to make, and be able to donate. I love the idea of a little baby in one of my hats, and I know families really appreciate the sweet touch.

I’ve put together a complete Guide to Crocheting & Knitting for Preemie Babies. The number one thing that I am going to recommend above anything else is first check with the organization that you plan to donate to. Each organization has their own needs, which can vary from time to time, and each one also has their own set of guidelines, like what kind of yarn and/or colors to use or not to use as well as things like if they accept donations from a pet friendly home, but in this guide, I talk about what I find to be the most common across preemie organizations for crocheting and knit items.

Easy Preemie Baby Crochet Patterns:

The Grace Tinley Preemie Beanie is worked in the classic granny stitch pattern which is simple double crochet stitches, available in the same 3 sizes, and also has a video tutorial available.

The Dylan Claire Preemie Beanies are worked in simple double crochet stitches, and there is a video tutorial available for it as well.

The Gia Afghan has instructions for a Lovey size (12″) and Preemie size (20″). Some organizations also like the Newborn size (30″) for preemies.

The Haylee Afghan has instructions for a Lovey size (12″) and Preemie size (20″). Some organizations also like the Newborn size (30″) for preemies.

The Volume One Afghan has instructions for a Lovey size (12″) and Preemie size (20″). Some organizations also like the Newborn size (30″) for preemies.

Free V-Stitch Crochet Patterns:

Veronica is an easy crochet line that features v-stitches formed from working double crochet stitches with a chain in between. While easy, I don’t recommend starting with a project that is worked in the round as a beginner – try it after you are comfortable working back and forth in rows using double crochet stitches.

Find more Veronica accessory and home decor crochet patterns here on EyeLoveKnots, and Veronica accessory and wearables crochet patterns on Cre8tion Crochet.

Ad-Free, Printer Friendly PDF:

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Through 11/26/25 at 11:59pm EST, you can grab a free copy of the PDF for the Lightweight Veronica Preemie Beanie on Ravelry using code VERONICA25. I earn my income from the number of pageviews my blog sees, so please do not share the code, but instead share the link to this post so others can find it. Thank you!

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Materials:

• Small Amounts of Lightweight (#3) Yarn – I used Baby Bee’s Sweet Delight from my local Hobby Lobby in the Sugarplum (Lavender), Sand Castle (Tan), Mint Charm (Pale Green), and Splash (Bright Blue) colorways 
• H8/5mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential

Material Notes:

I love using WeCrochet Swish DK, Berroco Vintage DK and Lion Brand Wool Ease DK for beanies. If you want to work with cotton, I recommend looking for a blend (like cotton and acrylic) as it needs another fiber combined with it to retain its shape and to be able to bounce back – 100% cotton will only grow out of shape – my favorites are Berroco Modern Cotton DK and Lion Brand Coboo. If you’re donating your beanies, make sure to check the organization’s guidelines first as they each have their own preferences. Mainly, you want a soft yarn that can withstand multiple washing and drying.

Keep in mind, we may think yellow for babies, especially as a neutral, but hospitals tend to stray away from yellow because it can make them appear jaundiced.

Time Spent:

I had the 1 – 1 1/2 lb and 2 – 3 lb sizes done in just under 15 minutes each, the 3 – 5 lb done in just under 20 minutes and the 6 – 8 lb hat done in just under 30 minutes. That’s less than an hour and a half for all four!

Measurements:

The 1 – 1 1/2 lb size has a crown of 2 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 7 7/8″ to fit a head size of 8″ – 9 1/4″, and is 3″ in length.

The 2 – 3 lb size has a crown of 3″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 9 1/2″ to fit a head size of 9 3/4″ – 11″, and is also 3 1/2″ in length.

The 3 – 5 lb size has a crown of 3 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 11″ to fit a head size of 11 1/4″ – 12 3/4″, and is 4 3/8″ in length.

The 6 – 8 lb size has a crown of 4″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 12 1/2″ to fit a head size of 13″ – 14″, and is 5 3/8″ in length.

If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around the head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 1” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. Typically, we do account for -2” of ease with double crochet beanies (for the amount of stretch in acrylic, wool & similar), but many organizations request preemie sizes to be -1” of ease.

Gauge (Essential):

Measured in Pattern.

Gauge it very important for beanies. If you do not meet gauge, and continue making your beanie, the finished size will either be too small or too big so make sure to stop and check it. If you’re measuring smaller than the given measurements, go up a crochet hook size, and if you’re measuring larger, go down a crochet hook size. Rework the sample, take gauge again, and see where you are.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

• HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial | Video Tutorial)
• DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
• How to V-Stitch: (DC, chain 1, DC)

Pattern Notes:

I work my crown and body differently than most to help keep my seam straight, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. The photo above shows where the first and last stitch are worked, and I have a photo tutorial of this technique in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post. You can work in your preferred increase method as long as we end up with the same stitches at the end of the round.

Beginning chain 2 does not count as a stitch in the crown, but does in the body of the hat, which will be marked with “counts as a … here and throughout).

Join to the first stitch of each round, unless otherwise stated.

1 – 1 1/2 lbs:

Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 1. Work 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)

R2: Chain 2. DC into the first HDC, 2 DC into each of the next 8 HDCs around, DC into the first HDC. Join. (18 DC)

R3: Chain 2. DC into the first 2 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into the next DC) 8x, DC into the first DC. Join. (27 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 2 1/2″.

R4: Chain 2 (counts as a double crochet here, and throughout). DC into the 2nd DC, and the next 25. Join. (27 DC)

R5: Chain 3 (counts as a double crochet plus chain 1 here, and throughout). DC into the 1st DC, [skip the next 2 DC, (DC, chain 1, DC) into the next DC] 8x. Join to the 2nd chain. (9 V-Stitches)

R6: Slip stitch into the next chain space. Chain 3. DC into the same chain space, [(DC, chain 1, DC) into the next chain space of the previous v-stitch] 8x. Join to the 2nd chain. (9 V-Stitches)

R7: Chain 2. DC into each chain space, and DC around. Join. (27 DC)

Fasten Off and Weave in Ends.

2 – 3 lbs:

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. Work 10 DC into the ring. Join. (10 DC)

R2: Chain 2. DC into the first DC, 2 DC into each of the next 9 DCs around, DC into the first DC. Join. (20 DC)

R3: Chain 2. DC into the first 2 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into the next DC) 9x, DC into the first DC. Join. (30 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 3″.

R4: Chain 2 (counts as a double crochet here, and throughout). DC into the 2nd DC, and the next 28. Join. (30 DC)

R5: Chain 3 (counts as a double crochet plus chain 1 here, and throughout). DC into the 1st DC, [skip the next 2 DC, (DC, chain 1, DC) into the next DC] 9x. Join to the 2nd chain. (10 V-Stitches)

R6: Slip stitch into the next chain space. Chain 3. DC into the same chain space, [(DC, chain 1, DC) into the next chain space of the previous v-stitch] 9x. Join to the 2nd chain. (10 V-Stitches)

R7: Chain 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch). HDC into the 1st DC, and into each chain space, and DC around. (30 HDC)

Fasten Off and Weave in Ends.

3 – 5 lbs:

Chain 4. Join to form a ring. Chain 1. Work 9 HDC into the ring. Join. (9 HDC)

R2: Chain 2. DC into the first HDC, 2 DC into each of the next 8 HDCs around, DC into the first HDC. Join. (18 DC)

R3: Chain 2. DC into the first 2 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into the next DC) 8x, DC into the first DC. Join. (27 DC)

R4: Chain 2. DC into the first 3 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into each of the next 2 DC) 8x, DC into the first DC. Join. (36 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 3 1/2″.

R5: Chain 2 (counts as a double crochet here, and throughout). DC into the 2nd DC, and the next 34. Join. (36 DC)

R6: Chain 3 (counts as a double crochet plus chain 1 here, and throughout). DC into the 1st DC, [skip the next 2 DC, (DC, chain 1, DC) into the next DC] 11x. Join to the 2nd chain. (12 V-Stitches)

R7 – 9: Slip stitch into the next chain space. Chain 3. DC into the same chain space, [(DC, chain 1, DC) into the next chain space of the previous v-stitch] 11x. Join to the 2nd chain. (12 V-Stitches)

R10: Chain 2. DC into each chain space, and DC around. Join. (36 DC)

Fasten Off and Weave in Ends.

6 – 8 lbs:

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. Work 11 DC into the ring. Join. (11 DC)

R2: Chain 2. DC into the first DC, 2 DC into each of the next 10 DCs around, DC into the first DC. Join. (22 DC)

R3: Chain 2. DC into the first 2 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into the next DC) 10x, DC into the first DC. Join. (33 DC)

R4: Chain 2. DC into the first 3 DCs, (2 DC into the next DC, DC into each of the next 2 DC) 10x, DC into the first DC. Join. (44 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4″.

R5: Chain 2 (counts as a double crochet here, and throughout). DC into the 2nd DC, and the next 43 (which includes one into the first stitch to count as an increase). Join. (45 DC)

R6: Chain 3 (counts as a double crochet plus chain 1 here, and throughout). DC into the 1st DC, [skip the next 2 DC, (DC, chain 1, DC) into the next DC] 14x. Join to the 2nd chain. (15 V-Stitches)

R7 – 11: Slip stitch into the next chain space. Chain 3. DC into the same chain space, [(DC, chain 1, DC) into the next chain space of the previous v-stitch] 14x. Join to the 2nd chain. (15 V-Stitches)

R8: Chain 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch). HDC into the 1st DC, and into each chain space, and DC around. (45 HDC)

Fasten Off and Weave in Ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.

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