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Basic C2C Hand Towel – Free Crochet Pattern

November 9, 2019

This is a free crochet pattern for how-to crochet my Basic C2C Hand Towel.

This post contains affiliate links for LoveCrafts and WeCrochet. If you make a purchase by clicking on them, I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support!

Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.

Since I published my Basic C2C Washcloths (Free Crochet Pattern) back in August of last year (2018), I have been wanting to make a hand towel version.

I actually finished this washcloth at the end of September with the intention of publishing shortly after Alexandra’s Maple Walnut Cookies, since I made it to go along with them, but October was a busy month for me with blog hops, and it just didn’t work out.

Many of the things I make end up being gifted to others, sold or donated, but this is something I made for myself, and it’s hanging in my kitchen on the handle of my stove just like you see in the photo.

As a washcloth, C2C can sometimes become saggy because of the spaces in the boxes, and by spaces, I really just mean like a slit from the beginning chain that all the stitches are worked onto. I use my washcloths either for decorative purposes, or just to dry things up – not to wash anything with because of this, and I use the hand towel the same way. It’s held up well, and despite being hung, it hasn’t stretched out too much (under 2″). I’m loving it!

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If you would like a PDF version of this post, you may get one through either my EyeLoveKnots Etsy Shop, Ravelry or LoveCrafts Shop for a small fee. This fee is to compensate for the views lost when you no longer need to return to the blog to for the information, as you will have your own copy. Plus! It helps fund supplies for new projects to share with you!

Shop EyeLoveKnots Etsy: Basic C2C Hand Towel.

Shop EyeLoveKnots LoveCrafts: Basic C2C Hand Towel.

Are you a Raveler? Share your version of this project on Ravelry – Basic C2C Hand Towel.

Want to make a set by adding some washcloths? Check out my Basic C2C Washcloths, Free Crochet Pattern!

Materials:

  • 300 Yards of Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn – I used Lily Sugar n Cream in the Ecru [Cream]
  • H8/5mm Crochet Hook for Lily Sugar n Cream
  • Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
  • Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

300 Yards is equal to one and a half super size skeins – this is an estimate. I know that it took me more than one ball of yarn to finish this hand towel, but I don’t remember how much of the second ball.

Yarn Alternatives: WeCrochet Dishie, Bernat Handicrafter, Red Heart’s Smoothie, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Rico Creative Cotton Aran.

Jewelry pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.

Time Spent:

Just over 3 hours.

Measurements:

15.38″ wide by 26.25″ in length

Gauge (Not Essential):

16 HDC by 10 Rows = 4″

Abbreviations:

  • DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
  • SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
  • Rev SC – Reverse Single Crochet/Crab Stitch

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain 2 counts as a double crochet.

A box is comprised of four double crochet’s.

The “space under the same chain joined to” is defined as the space between the last two double crochet’s of the previous rows box.

Working the final double crochet into the top of the chain from the previous row helps to keep the edge more even. After completing the first box, your edge may look a little wonky, but no need to stress or straighten as the border will cover this up.

Typically in corner to corner, when working a box that begins with a turn (versus a chain 6), there is not a beginning chain, but in these washcloths I added one because there was no give with the cotton yarn. If using anything but cotton yarn, don’t chain here.

In the Border, the chain 1 does not count as a stitch, and join to the first stitch. Also, the first round of single crochet adds 0.5″ to the width and height, and the round of reverse single crochet adds an additional 0.25″ to the width and height.

I worked a couple different border options before deciding on the reverse single crochet. I knew I specifically wanted the added texture and finishing of the reverse single crochet, and while I usually start with a round of single crochet + chain 2, this time, it didn’t work out, so I went right into a regular round of single crochet as the base of the border (as written).

Pattern:

Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)

R2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2. Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

R3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (3 Boxes)

R4 – 20: Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end of Row 20, you will have 20 Boxes.

R21: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 18x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. (20 Boxes)

R22: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 18x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. (20 Boxes)

R23 – 54: Repeat Rows 21 + 22.

R55: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain:
(IV) (chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 17x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (19 Boxes)

R56 – 71: Using Row 36 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (IV) one less time each row to decrease the number of boxes by one each row. At the end of Row 54, you will have 3 boxes.

R72: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

R73: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to. Skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)

Border – Row 1 looks like a lot, but basically it is one stitch in between boxes, two stitches in the side of each box, and a (SC, chain 1, SC) in each corner:

Chain 1. SC into the space between the boxes just under your current place, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 17x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 34x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 19x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner stitch, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 34x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box. Join.

R2: Chain 1, and evenly rev SC around the washcloth working just one stitch in each corner chain space, and ending with a stitch in the same stitch as the first.

Fasten Off, and Weave in Ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Basic C2C Hand Towels using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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Filed Under: Free Crochet Patterns Tagged With: 5/H8, Bathroom, C2C, Corner to Corner, Cotton, Cream, DC C2C, Double Crochet, Free Crochet Pattern, Hand Towel, Kitchen, Lily Sugar n Cream, LoveCrafts, LoveCrochet, Reverse Single Crochet, Single Crochet, WeCrochet, WeCrochet Dishie, Worsted Weight Yarn

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Comments

  1. Michelle says

    November 9, 2019 at 8:00 pm

    Awesome! Pinning!

    Reply
    • Alexandra says

      November 9, 2019 at 8:36 pm

      Thanks, Michelle!

      Reply
  2. Linda says

    November 10, 2019 at 12:37 pm

    I’m in agreement of the stretching of the C2C dishcloths.
    We always have a glass of ice water sitting on the counter and it sweats horribly. I use the ones I have made as a coaster or to set the rinsed coffee cups upside down on to drain.
    I want to try to make a large C2C towel using a smaller hook. I’m thinking about using it as a place mat.

    Reply
    • Alexandra says

      November 10, 2019 at 1:48 pm

      I would like to make some placemats too. I would say you could easily go down to a G6/4.25mm hook if it doesn’t have a shallow mouth. Otherwise, simply do the C2C pattern using half double crochet stitches instead of double crochets – there will be less room for stretching.

      Reply
  3. creativejewishmom/sara says

    November 11, 2019 at 9:40 am

    Love it, and a great way to try out c2c! thanks for sharing on craft schooling Sunday!

    Reply
  4. Linda says

    November 13, 2019 at 10:31 am

    Half DC sounds good too. I’m hoping to get started on them soon. They should work up fast.
    Thx for the pattern.

    Reply
    • Alexandra says

      November 24, 2019 at 10:57 am

      Even though mine took nearly three hours, I really feel like it flew by. Enjoy 🙂 Would love some feedback if you get a chance to work it up.

      Reply
  5. Teresa says

    November 14, 2019 at 12:36 pm

    I have never mastered the art of C2C crochet, somehow all my experiences turn out wonky…maybe I’ll try your pattern this time and see if I have better luck.
    Thank you for sharing at The Really Crafty Link Party. Pinned.

    Reply
    • Alexandra says

      November 24, 2019 at 10:58 am

      Hehe. If there’s anything specifically that troubles you, let me know, and I will try my best to help you out 🙂

      Reply
  6. Kathy Cakebread says

    November 14, 2019 at 6:48 pm

    Crocheting looks so complicated, wish I knew how to get started!

    Reply
    • Alexandra says

      November 24, 2019 at 11:00 am

      I will say, I started to learn to crochet twice before, and it was like nothing was clicking, and I was frustrated with it, but the last time I wanted to learn, I found Emi of the Hectanooga1 YouTube channel, and she really made it so easy to learn and follow. For the first time, I felt like all those sentences of abbreviations I saw in patterns finally made sense. Then, I went to JoAnn’s, and found a teach me to crochet kit in the kid’s craft aisle, and I worked up a sunglass pouch. From then on, I was hooked.

      Reply

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Welcome!

Welcome!

Hey! I'm Alexandra, the blogger and creator behind EyeLoveKnots and On Rockwood Lane! My passion is being creative. My favorite thing to do is crochet, and you will almost always find me having a cup of coffee and working on a new crochet project, but when I'm not doing that, you might find me out at a local park rollerblading, baking some fresh cookies, picking veggies in the garden or re-decorating for a new season or holiday. My two cats are great supervisors for all my adventures (minus the being outside because they think it's too hot in Florida to be anywhere but inside), and make sure I take plenty of breaks.

Meet the Team!

Meet the Team!

On the left, Abby is the maker behind A Stitch Shy of Normal, and on the right Jessica is the maker behind Nice and Knotty and Candace is the maker behind TandC Crafters.

Together, they help me bring awesome crochet projects to you! Click the image to learn more about them, and get their Instagram links, where they are constantly sharing tons of crochet inspiration.

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