Basic C2C Hand Towel – Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern for how-to crochet my Basic C2C Hand Towel.

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Since I published my Basic C2C Washcloths (Free Crochet Pattern) back in August of last year (2018), I have been wanting to make a hand towel version.

I actually finished this washcloth at the end of September with the intention of publishing shortly after Alexandra’s Maple Walnut Cookies, since I made it to go along with them, but October was a busy month for me with blog hops, and it just didn’t work out.

Many of the things I make end up being gifted to others, sold or donated, but this is something I made for myself, and it’s hanging in my kitchen on the handle of my stove just like you see in the photo.

As a washcloth, C2C can sometimes become saggy because of the spaces in the boxes, and by spaces, I really just mean like a slit from the beginning chain that all the stitches are worked onto. I use my washcloths either for decorative purposes, or just to dry things up – not to wash anything with because of this, and I use the hand towel the same way. It’s held up well, and despite being hung, it hasn’t stretched out too much (under 2″). I’m loving it!

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Want to make a set by adding some washcloths? Check out my Basic C2C Washcloths, Free Crochet Pattern!

Materials:

• 300 Yards of Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn – I used Lily Sugar n Cream in the Ecru [Cream]
• H8/5mm Crochet Hook for Lily Sugar n Cream
• Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
• Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

300 Yards is equal to one and a half super size skeins – this is an estimate. I know that it took me more than one ball of yarn to finish this hand towel, but I don’t remember how much of the second ball.

Yarn Alternatives: Bernat Handicrafter, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Rico Creative Cotton Aran.

Jewelry pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.

Time Spent:

Just over 3 hours.

Measurements:

15.38″ wide by 26.25″ in length

Gauge (Not Essential):

16 HDC by 10 Rows = 4″

Abbreviations:

• DC – Double Crochet
• SC – Single Crochet
• Rev SC – Reverse Single Crochet/Crab Stitch

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain 2 counts as a double crochet.

A box is comprised of four double crochet’s.

The “space under the same chain joined to” is defined as the space between the last two double crochet’s of the previous rows box.

Working the final double crochet into the top of the chain from the previous row helps to keep the edge more even. After completing the first box, your edge may look a little wonky, but no need to stress or straighten as the border will cover this up.

Typically in corner to corner, when working a box that begins with a turn (versus a chain 6), there is not a beginning chain, but in these washcloths I added one because there was no give with the cotton yarn. If using anything but cotton yarn, don’t chain here.

In the Border, the chain 1 does not count as a stitch, and join to the first stitch. Also, the first round of single crochet adds 0.5″ to the width and height, and the round of reverse single crochet adds an additional 0.25″ to the width and height.

I worked a couple different border options before deciding on the reverse single crochet. I knew I specifically wanted the added texture and finishing of the reverse single crochet, and while I usually start with a round of single crochet + chain 2, this time, it didn’t work out, so I went right into a regular round of single crochet as the base of the border (as written).

Pattern:

Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)

R2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2. Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

R3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (3 Boxes)

R4 – 20: Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end of Row 20, you will have 20 Boxes.

R21: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 18x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. (20 Boxes)

R22: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 18x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. (20 Boxes)

R23 – 54: Repeat Rows 21 + 22.

R55: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain:
(IV) (chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 17x;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (19 Boxes)

R56 – 71: Using Row 36 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (IV) one less time each row to decrease the number of boxes by one each row. At the end of Row 54, you will have 3 boxes.

R72: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

R73: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to. Skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)

Border – Row 1 looks like a lot, but basically it is one stitch in between boxes, two stitches in the side of each box, and a (SC, chain 1, SC) in each corner:

Chain 1. SC into the space between the boxes just under your current place, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 17x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 34x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 19x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner stitch, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, 2 SC into the side of the next box) 34x, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the next corner stitch, 2 SC into the side of the next box. Join.

R2: Chain 1, and evenly rev SC around the washcloth working just one stitch in each corner chain space, and ending with a stitch in the same stitch as the first.

Fasten Off, and Weave in Ends.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Basic C2C Hand Towels using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

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