Learn how to crochet a bobble stitch crochet washcloth in 7 sizes with this free pattern using your favorite worsted weight yarn. The awesome texture makes this the perfect washcloth for exfoliating with in the shower and the perfect dishcloth for the kitchen.
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The Bobblish Washcloth is a fun textured crochet washcloth worked in a combination of single crochet stitches and bobble stitches, which creates an awesome texture that makes this the perfect washcloth for exfoliating with in the shower and the perfect dishcloth for the kitchen.
You can easily work a bobble stitch washcloth in one solid color, or carry a second color throughout the project so you can switch to it for the pops of color in the bobbles – so much fun! Just keep in mind, when you carry yarn throughout it adds a little bit of bulkiness, which would make the washcloth longer, even if worked in equal rows with a washcloth worked in a solid color.
While an 8″ square is the most common size for washcloths, there are 7 sizes available in this pattern so you can make it in the perfect size for you and what you will use it for!
If you’re looking for a gift, work up a set of three, and wrap with a bow. Place in a kitchen themed gift basket with some small scrubbies, or place in a spa themed gift basket with some facial scrubbies!
This washcloth has actually been around since May of 2019 when I published the original Let’s Crochet Some Washcloths, Vol 1, but it was never published on the blog until now! I worked it in Lily Sugar n Cream in the Mod Green and Hot Green colorways, and it’s shown next to the Vertical Garden Washcloth. Fast forward to November of 2024, and this design is getting a full update: working in a new yarn, adding multiple sizes to have my new range of sizes from 4″ up to 10″, getting a video tutorial soon, and the free PDF for blog subscribers in the new Free File Library.
Easy Bobble Stitch Crochet Patterns:
Bobblish is a fun texture line that features a combination of single crochets and bobble stitches in a staggered pattern to create an awesome texture. These projects have a simple four row repeat making them great projects to pair with watching your favorite TV show or movie, and for projects like this washcloth, you don’t have to even count rows if you don’t want you – you can use a soft tape measure to measure as you go, and stop at the length desired.
Find more Bobblish accessory and home decor crochet patterns here on EyeLoveKnots, and Bobblish accessory and wearables crochet patterns on Cre8tion Crochet.
You’ll love these matching pieces for your home!
Sport Weight Bobblish Washcloths
If you like making washcloths as much as I do, you’ll love these:
How do you crochet a bobble stitch washcloth?
The bobble stitch washcloth will begin with a row of single crochet, then the remainder of the washcloth is worked in a 4 row repeat – bobble stitch, single crochet, bobble stitch, single crochet – where the bobble stitch rows are slightly different to stagger the bobble stitches evenly.
To crochet a bobble stitch washcloth, you’ll start with a chain that is a multiple of 4 + 5 + 1 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 4 like 8, 12, 16 etc plus 5, respectively that would be, 13, 17, 21, etc plus 1.
I’ve done this stitch multiple to equal 3 single crochet stitches in between bobble stitches, but if you would like to adjust this, keep the number of single crochets as an odd number so the bobble is evenly staggered in the center. The 5 equals 2 single crochets on both ends and 1 bobble so if you adjust the center count, you may want to also add extra stitches on the ends to match.
Next, single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across to the end.
For the next row, chain 1 and turn. Single crochet into the first 2 stitches and then work a bobble stitch into the next stitch. Now, it’s time for the repeat to begin: single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches, then bobble stitch into the next stitch. You’ll work this repeat all the way across the row to the last 2 stitches, where you’ll finish with a single crochet into each of these stitches.
For the following row, you’ll single crochet into each stitch across.
Next, we’ll work two more similar rows, but this time, when we work the bobble stitch row, we’ll start by single crocheting into the first 4 stitches, then work a bobble stitch into the next stitch, followed by the same repeat as before working all the way up to the last 4 stitches where we’ll finish with single crochet stitches. By off setting the two ends, our bobble stitches will be evenly staggered between the previous rows and the next rows.
You’ll continue alternating these 4 rows working as many rows as you want ending with an odd row, or a single crochet row. When you finish that last single crochet row, you’ll notice you’re looking at the front, textured side and you’ll be in the perfect spot to then chain 1, turn and begin a border from the flat, back side, or wrong side.
A border is completely optional, but I like to work one to give the washcloth a more finished look.
For my border, I went with single crochets working a single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in each corner, and I added a hanging loop to one of them.
If you have other questions like: where do you use a washcloth — how often should I clean and change a washcloth — how do I dry a crocheted washcloth — what is the difference between a crocheted washcloth and dishcloth — what size should a crocheted washcloth or dishcloth be — what is the best yarn to use for a crocheted washcloth, then you’ll want to check out my post, Everything You Need to Know About Crocheting a Washcloth.
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What Materials Do I Need to Crochet a Bobble Stitch Washcloth or Dishcloth?
- 25 (40, 60, 85, 105, 135, 165) Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Queensland Coastal Cotton in the Malachite [Green] and Porcelain colorways
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Optional, Jewelry Pliers
Material Notes:
The brighter green color is called Granny Smith, and that’s on my Sportweight Bobblish Washcloth crochet pattern worked in a #2 weight yarn.
Yarn Alternative: WeCrochet Dishie Yarn, I Love This Cotton Yarn
There are many fibers that make nice crocheted washcloths, though cotton yarns are used the most and are very durable for repeated use and washing. My preferred yarns for washcloths are Queensland Coastal Cotton, available in both solid colors and variegated colors, and WeCrochet Dishie Yarn because they’re colorfast as compared to Lily Sugar n Cream, Bernat Handicrafter and Crafters Secret Cotton where with one wash, the colors fade a lot, and some colors, like greens and blues, bleed if laid down on a surface while wet. Queensland Coastal Cotton works up somewhere in between the thickness of WeCrochet Dishie and Lily Sugar n Cream, and it’s a soft cotton yarn. I’ve heard that I Love This Cotton Yarn is also colorfast, and seems to be the choice for many crocheters that do markets as it’s also softer.
Cotton blends work well for washcloths, and the synthetic fiber they’re combined with, such as acrylic or polyester, will often add a bit more durability, however, they lack the absorbency so they do need the plant based fiber.
Linen also makes for a really lovely washcloth. It gets strong when wet, and gets softer and nicer with each wash. Linen blends often combine with cotton or bamboo to add softness.
Bamboo yarns have a high absorbency – even more than cotton – however, bamboo is weaker when wet, and more prone to developing mold so if bamboo is a fiber you want to use, I definitely recommend going with a blend of linen and/or cotton.
If you wanted to use this as an afghan square instead, use your favorite worsted weight yarn paired with an I9/5.5mm crochet hook (because cotton yarn is more relaxed than say an acrylic or wool).
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a G6/4.25mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
Jewelry pliers are a great tool to use to help weave in ends, as cotton yarn can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle. My experience with Queensland Coastal Cotton has been that it is really smooth, and easy to weave the yarn in and out of, but I did find it a little tougher with these washcloths.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Washcloth?
I worked up the 7″ washcloth in just under an hour and a half.
Measurements with Border:
- 4″: 3 7/8″ by 4″
- 5″: 5″ Square
- 6″: 6″ by 5 7/8″
- 7″: 7 1/8″ by 7 3/8″
- 8″: 8 1/8″ by 8 1/4″
- 9″: 9 1/4″ Square
- 10″: 10 1/4″ by 10 1/8″
The bolded measurements are my goal size, and the following measurements are the actual ones from the project.
Gauge (Not Essential):
15 stitches = 4″ wide by 17 Rows = 4 1/8″ tall
Note: If you are measuring a swatch that is only 15 stitches wide by 17 rows tall, the measurements will slightly vary. If working a swatch, I recommend working at least 21 stitches by 21 rows, but a swatch is not necessary for this project unless the finished size is essential to you.
When working the pattern, the border will add about 1/2″ to the width. After working about 6 rows, you can measure the width, add in that 1/2″ for the border, and you will know if the finished size will be where you want it to be. The height is even easier to see as you can measure as you go, and stop when you get close to your desired height making sure to figure in about 3/8″ for the border.
Abbreviation (US Term):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Special Stitch:
Bobble stitches are worked from the wrong side, or back side, of the project, but will pop out on the right side, or front side. The single crochet that follows the bobble stitch is what brings it level with the rest of the single crochet stitches and will make the bobble pop.
To Create a Bobble: all worked into the same stitch: (yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) 4x, yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
Pattern Notes:
If you wanted to alter the width of the washcloth, work a chain that is a multiple of 4 + 5 + 1 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 4 like 8, 12, 16 etc plus 5, respectively that would be, 13, 17, 21, etc plus 1. An easier way is to take away or add by 4 chains at a time to the chains I’ve provided.
I’ve done this stitch multiple to equal 3 single crochet stitches in between bobble stitches, but if you would like to adjust this, keep the number of single crochets as an odd number so the bobble is evenly staggered in the center. The 5 equals 2 single crochets on both ends and 1 bobble so if you adjust the center count, you may want to also add extra stitches on the ends to match.
If you want to alter the height of the washcloth, simply add or subtract rows ending on an odd row so the border can be worked from the wrong side, or the flat back side.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
Beginning chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
I worked my washcloths in solid colors, but if you would like the bobbles to be worked in a different color (like my original – shown next to the Vertical Garden Washcloth), you will need to carry the bobble color along the back the entire time from the very first stitch worked into the beginning chain – meaning you will crochet over a strand of yarn the whole time. This is important to get a consistent tension, and size. You will not work over the other strand in the border. If you would like to change yarn colors, do so in the last yarn over of the previous row. If needed, see my How to Change Yarn Colors in Crochet tutorial. Keep in mind, if you crochet over a strand, it will bump up the height of each row resulting in less rows needed to reach the same size.
Bobble Stitch Crochet Washcloth Free Pattern | Bobble Stitch Dishcloth Free Pattern:
4″ Size:
Chain 14. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (13 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (13 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 15: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
5″ Size:
Chain 18. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (17 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (17 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 19: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
6″ Size:
Chain 22. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (21 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (21 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 23: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
7″ Size:
Chain 26. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (25 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (25 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 29: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
8″ Size:
Chain 30. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (29 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (29 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 33: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
9″ Size:
Chain 34. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (33 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (33 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 37: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
10″ Size:
Chain 38. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and into each chain across. (37 SC)
R2: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 2 stitches. (37 stitches)
R3: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R4: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st 4 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch, (SC into each of the next 3 stitches, Bobble into the next stitch) across, SC into each of the last 4 stitches.
R5: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch across.
R6 – 41: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, ending on a Row 3 or Row 5.
Proceed to Border.
Border Notes:
A border is completely optional, but I like to work one to give the washcloth a more finished look.
I am working a simple single crochet round, but you can change that stitch up to any that you like, or add additional rounds to the border.
I am working my corners as (SC, chain 1, SC), which will give me a more rounded corner. Another way you can do this is 3 SCs into the same stitch. If you like a more square corner, you can work a (SC, chain 2, SC) or (SC, HDC, SC) into the same stitch.
I finished my washcloths with a slip stitch join, but you could also finish your washcloth with an invisible join, which creates a clean, consistent look. Either way, this stitch will count as the final stitch for the border.
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a G6/4.25mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
Border Without Hanging Loop:
Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st stitch and into each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per SC row) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per SC row) up the side of the washcloth to the first stitch, SC into the same stitch as the first then slip stitch join to the 1st SC (which takes the place of the last chain).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Border With Hanging Loop – Photo Tutorial:
Chain 6, then slip stitch join to the last SC of the washcloth to form a ring. Chain 1, turn. Work 10 SC into the ring. Skip the first stitch that slip stitch was made in. SC into the 2nd stitch, and each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per SC row) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 1 stitch per SC row) up the side of the washcloth skipping the very last stitch on the side, then slip stitch join to the 1st SC worked into the hanging loop (which takes the place of the last stitch).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
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