Learn how to crochet an easy crochet washcloth featuring the cute and classic granny stitch pattern in 7 sizes with this free pattern and video tutorial using your sport weight cotton yarn. This washcloth is a great project to work in a solid color, or bust out your yarn scraps and work in fun stripes or a color block pattern.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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It’s time for the 3rd sport weight washcloth from the Mystery Washcloth Crochet a Long, the Sport Weight Grace Tinley Washcloth, which is a fun and easy crochet washcloth worked in the cute and classic granny stitch pattern.
While an 8″ square is the most common size for washcloths, there are 7 sizes available in this pattern so you can make it in the perfect size for you and what you will use it for!
This worsted weight version of this washcloth has actually be around since May of 2019 when I published the original Let’s Crochet Some Washcloths, Vol 1 and updated in September of 2024 to go hand in hand with this sport weight version.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall, which is the size for my blue and yellow version. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
There is no doubt that handmade washcloths are great for washing dishes with, and also feel fantastic against the skin in the shower, though worked in the classic granny stitch pattern, I do question if the soap would go right through the holes or if I’d get annoyed at feeling the other side of things against my hands through the holes?
For me, the lacy stitch pattern of these granny stitch washcloths makes for a beautiful, decorative washcloth to display in the kitchen or bathroom, use as a doily or even as a coaster or use just for drying off hands and dishes and not washing anything with it UNTIL you see my upcoming update that I am working on with Stitch Soak Scrub Yarn from my Yarn Crafts and Coffee yarn shop to make these better for washing dishing and using in the shower – stay tuned!
I am running an Earwarmer Crochet a Long at the same time as this Washcloth Crochet a Long, and the stitches are the same on both sides. If you are interested, make sure to check out my Lightweight Mobius Grace Tinley Headband.
Grace Tinley Granny Stitch Free Crochet Patterns:
Grace Tinley is one of my series that feature the beautiful, classic granny stitch pattern. This is a beginner friendly series, and this washcloth is great project to pair with watching your favorite TV show or movie. Use a soft tape measure to measure as you go, and stop at the length desired.
Find accessories and home decor projects here on EyeLoveKnots, and wearables and accessories on Cre8tion Crochet.
You’ll love these granny square projects for your home!
Sport Weight Grace Tinley Washcloths
If you like making washcloths as much as I do, you’ll love these:
Sport Weight Little Pebbles Washcloth
How do you crochet a sport weight granny stitch washcloth?
To crochet a sport weight granny stitch washcloth, you’ll start with a chain that is a multiple of 3 plus 1 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 3 like 6, 9, 12, etc plus 1.
Next, work 2 double crochet stitches into the 4th chain from the hook. Together with the skipped chains, this will be our 1st granny stitch cluster of 3 stitches. Skip each of the next 2 chains. The repeat starts here: work 3 double crochet stitches into the next stitch to form our next granny stitch cluster, then skip each of the next 2 chains working all the way down the row until you have just 1 stitch left in which you work will 1 double crochet.
For the next row and all the remaining rows, you will start with a chain 2, which will count as the 1st stitch of the 1st granny stitch cluster. Turn your work, then work 2 double crochet stitches into the 1st space that is in between the previous rows cluster. The repeat starts here: Skip the 3 stitches of the next granny stitch cluster, and work 3 double crochet stitches into the next space in between the granny stitch cluster working all the way down the row until you have reached the very last cluster in which you will skip 2 stitches of this last granny stitch cluster and work 1 double crochet into the top chain of the beginning chain 2 on that last stitch.
Continue repeating this last row until you have reached the height you’d like for your washcloth. Because we are turning at the end of each row, both sides look exactly the same so you can end on either side.
I like to add a border to my washcloth for a clean finish, but it’s not necessary if you don’t want to add one.
If you have other questions like: where do you use a washcloth — how often should I clean and change a washcloth — how do I dry a crocheted washcloth — what is the difference between a crocheted washcloth and dishcloth — what size should a crocheted washcloth or dishcloth be — what is the best yarn to use for a crocheted washcloth, then you’ll want to check out my post, Everything You Need to Know About Crocheting a Washcloth.
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What Materials Do I Need to Crochet a Sport Weight Granny Stitch Washcloth or Dishcloth?
- 25 (35, 55, 65, 85, 100, 125) Yards of Sport Weight #2 Cotton Yarn – I used Queensland Cotton Coastal Fine in the Azure colorway
- F5/3.75mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
Material Notes:
My sample is the 7″ size. The rest of the size yardages are estimated based on my sample.
In my photos, the green and darker blue are my worsted weight Grace Tinley Washcloth pattern.
Yarn Alternatives: WeCrochet CotLin, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK and I might go so far as to say Juniper Moon Zooey, though I haven’t tested
There are many fibers that make nice crocheted washcloths, though cotton yarns are used the most and are very durable for repeated use and washing.
Cotton blends work well for washcloths, and the synthetic fiber they’re combined with, such as acrylic or polyester, will often add a bit more durability, however, they lack the absorbency so they do need the plant based fiber.
Linen also makes for a really lovely washcloth. It gets strong when wet, and gets softer and nicer with each wash, especially so when combined with cotton or bamboo, which add softness. This is why I’ve said that Juniper Moon Zooey may also work since it’s 60% Linen and 40% Cotton. Seems like a great fiber content for a washcloth, though I have not tested this myself.
Bamboo yarns have a high absorbency – even more than cotton – however, bamboo is weaker when wet, and more prone to developing mold so if bamboo is a fiber you want to use, I definitely recommend going with a blend of linen and/or cotton.
If you wanted to use this an afghan square instead, use your favorite sport weight / fine #2 yarn paired with an G6/4mm or 4.25mm crochet hook (because cotton yarn is more relaxed than say an acrylic or wool).
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs. I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a E4/3.5mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton Fine, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Washcloth?
I worked up the 7″ washcloth in just under an hour and half.
Measurements with Border:
- 4″: 3 3/4″ by 3 7/8″
- 5″: 5″ Square
- 6″: 6 1/4″ Square
- 7″: 7″ Square
- 8″: 8 1/8″ by 8 1/4″
- 9″: 8 7/8″ by 9″
- 10″: 10 1/8″ Square
The bolded measurements are my goal size, and the following measurements are the actual ones from the project.
The most common washcloth size I come across is 8″ by 8″, but I know everybody has their size preferences so I aim to have square sizes from 4″ to 10″.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
Gauge (Not Essential):
Measured in Pattern:
- 9 clusters + spaces aka 27 stitches = 5 3/8″ wide
- 15 Rows = 5 7/8″
Note: If you are measuring a swatch that is only equal to my gauge, the measurements will slightly vary. If working a swatch, I recommend working more stitches widthwise so you can measure only the stitches in the middle of the project as the measurements of the stitches at the beginning and end are slightly different, and measure from the first row, not the beginning chain, but a swatch is not necessary for this project unless the finished size is essential to you.
When working the pattern, the border will add about 1/2″ to the width and 1/4″ to the height. After working about 6 – 8 rows, you can measure the width, add in the border, and you will know if the finished size will be where you want it to be. The height is even easier to see as you can measure as you go, and stop when you get close to your desired height making sure to figure in the border.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
Pattern Notes:
If you wanted to alter the width of the washcloth, work a chain that is a multiple of 3 plus 1 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 3 like 6, 9, 12, etc plus 1. An easier way is to take away or add by 3 chains at a time to the chains I’ve provided.
Beginning chain 2 does count as a stitch as does the skipped chains in the foundation chain.
If you want to alter the height of the washcloth, simply add or subtract rows ending on either side.
One size that has been really popular over the years has been 8″ wide by 10″ tall. I decided to take out the instructions for this size specifically, but you can easily make any size washcloth a rectangle by continuing to work rows until you reach the size that you want, or follow the row counts for the length desired.
I worked my washcloths in solid colors, but stripes or a colorblock pattern would be really fun too. If you would like to change yarn colors, do so in the last yarn over of the previous row. If needed, see my How to Change Yarn Colors in Crochet tutorial.
Sport Weight Crochet Granny Stitch Washcloth Video Tutorial | Easy Sport Weight Granny Stitch Crochet Dishcloth Video Tutorial:
Coming Soon to our YouTube channel!
Sport Weight Yarn Crochet Granny Stitch Washcloth Free Pattern | Easy Crochet Granny Stitch Dish Cloth Free Pattern with Sport Weight Yarn
4″ Size:
Chain 19. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (16 DC)
R2 – 9: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
5″ Size:
Chain 25. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (22 DC)
R2 – 12: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
6″ Size:
Chain 31. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (28 DC)
R2 – 15: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
7″ Size:
Chain 34. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (31 DC)
R2 – 17: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
8″ Size:
Chain 40. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (37 DC)
R2 – 20: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
9″ Size:
Chain 43. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (40 DC)
R2 – 22: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
10″ Size:
Chain 49. Work 2 DC into the 4th chain from the hook, skip each of the next 2 chains, (work 3 DC into the next chain, skip each of the next 2 chains) across, 1 DC into the last chain. (46 DC)
R2 – 25: Chain 2, and turn. Work 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the stitches from the next cluster, (work 3 DC into the next space, skip the stitches from the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Proceed to Border.
Border Notes:
The border is optional, but I like to work one to give the washcloth a more finished look.
I am working a simple single crochet round, but you can change that stitch up to any that you like, or add additional rounds to the border.
I am working my corners as (SC, chain 1, SC), which will give me a more rounded corner. Another way you can do this is 3 SCs into the same stitch. If you like a more square corner, you can work a (SC, chain 2, SC) or (SC, HDC, SC) into the same stitch.
If you experience ruffling when working the border, this is caused from a change, especially seen on the sides. My quick fix is to simply go down a hook size to a E4/3.5mm. You can also continue with the same hook you’ve been working with, and just block the finished washcloth. Usually, I run into this issue, but with the Queensland Coastal Cotton Fine, I did not so I kept the same hook throughout.
I finished my washcloths with a slip stitch join, but you could also finish your washcloth with an invisible join, which creates a clean, consistent look. Either way, this stitch will count as the final stitch for the border.
Border Without Hanging Loop:
Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st stitch and into each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 2 stitches per DC row) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 2 stitches per DC row) up the side of the washcloth to the first stitch, SC into the same stitch as the first then slip stitch join to the 1st SC (which takes the place of the last chain).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Border With Hanging Loop:
Chain 6, then slip stitch join to the last SC of the washcloth to form a ring. Chain 1, turn. Work 10 SC into the ring. Skip the first stitch that slip stitch was made in. SC into the 2nd stitch, and each remaining stitch across over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 2 stitches per DC row) down the side of the washcloth to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, SC across the opposite side of the foundation chain over to the last stitch, (SC, chain 1, SC) into the last stitch to form a corner, evenly SC (that’s 2 stitches per DC row) up the side of the washcloth skipping the very last stitch on the side, then slip stitch join to the 1st SC worked into the hanging loop (which takes the place of the last stitch).
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Hanging Loop Photo Tutorial – Shown on my Haylee Washcloths:
Step 1: Pick your side. I like to work my border from the right side of the washcloth. With the granny stitch pattern, we turn with each row and both sides look the same so you can finish on either an odd or even row.
Step 2: Chain 6. We’re going to be slip stitching into the top of the last stitch.
Step 3: Swing your crochet hook over towards the left of the chain and insert into the top of the last stitch.
Step 4: Yarn over.
Step 5: Pull through the stitch and the loop on the crochet hook to complete a slip stitch.
Now we’ve formed a ring that we can work into to build our hanging loop.
Step 6: Chain 1.
Step 7: Turn your work over.
Step 8: Insert your crochet hook right into the center of the ring picking up the chains over top of your hook.
Step 9: Complete a single crochet.
Step 10: Continue working 9 more single crochets into the center ring. If you reach a point where you have run out of space for stitches, hold onto the remaining chains in your left hand and with your right hand, pull down on the single crochets and they will slide down the chain to make space.
Step 11: Skip the first stitch of the row, which is the same stitch you’ve slip stitched to, and begin single crocheting into the next stitch.
Step 12: Evenly single crochet around the washcloth working a (SC, chain 1, SC) into each of the 3 remaining corners and working 2 stitches per DC row along the sides. Once near the beginning, skip the very last stitch. We’re going to be joining to the very first stitch of the hanging loop.
Step 13: Insert your crochet hook into the 1st stitch of the hanging loop underneath both loops.
Step 14: Yarn over.
Step 15: Pull through that stitch and the loop that’s on your hook to complete a slip stitch.
And now we have a handy hanging loop for our washcloth. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Please feel free to make and sell your own items made using this pattern, but keep in mind, this written pattern and my photos are protected by copyright. Please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern. DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead so other’s can visit. Making videos providing instructions how to make my projects on any social media platform is also not permitted.
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